I have this conversation by email with people several times a week so wanted to make sure I get out out a 'statement' to make sure it gets covered again on the board. Please forgive me for cross posting to both MPD and DS forums. This information applies to both programs equally.

Default ease is a startng point. It may or may not be your personal ideal.(You have to have some place to start or you do not get any patterns)

Many people are used to rather extended shoulders and the high true shoulder point wears as a surprise.

Some like a broader across shoulder to counter balance a pear shaped body with narrow shoulders or a rounded back or other fit challenge.

Our fit for fitted is a little more fitted than what's called "standard" fit in the shops. Because it CAN be. We don't need to add inches to arm hole depth simply so more "sizes" can fit their arm in the sleeve, and we can fit garments to your vertical body dimensions including tilted waists, high or low bustlines etc.

What you find as 'fitted' in shops is a little more towards semi fitted with our custom sized patterns. Which is why so many knits and stretch fabrics are on the market these days.They can snug into the body due to the stretch factor.

The fit/ease tool is a remarkable gadget. With one click you can go from form fit/stretch to standard, semi or relaxed fit and you can modify each body area.

Lets say you want a little more ease at hips than fitted gives you- simply go to fit/ease and add whatever inches or fractions of inches you want to add. OR go to semi fitted and reduce waist abd and hip ease to something more like our fitted ease numbers.

Or lets say you want a larger shoulder extension (our standard fit is in the approx 1/2 inch range based on a formula from your chart) - and you still want to retain the fitted or other selected fit level look- fit/ease allows you to adjust the shoulder extension by entering the number you want, and it automatically adjusts the across chest and across back dimensions, arm hole depths, and sleeve cap so you arent "drawing" new sleeves and arm holes to match the adjustment. Its all done for you.

The key is always knowing where you start by trying a muslin of a fitted or semi fitted garment and knowing where you want to go.

You can combine fit levels in the same garment. Note what the fit ease numbers are for a fit level up or down from the one you want to make at key body spots.. use the fit level that best supports the majority of the garment and use the higher or lower settings as a guideline to set the points you want adjusted.

Working with 1/4 (or 50% if 1/4 is too small for you) scale patterns gives you a visual comparison by overlaying the fitted and semi fitted print outs so you can see what your adjustments do before even printing a full scale pattern and long before touching your precious fabrics.

One of the quickest ways to decide what really works for you is an afternoon of window shopping if looking at summer shorts, or a fancy evening dress go to the best store in town and bring along a handy little tape measure that self winds up,try on some great clothes and take a few measurements at bicep, bust, hem, thigh and waist.

Now you have a design fit model to aim towards. What works in the retail garment can be the model part- what doesnt work can be ignored. Like the skirt thats a great length and flare but wont zip unless you go up a size.or the jacket that fits great in the shoulders/sleeves but wont button over the hips..unless you are a model size you have probably experienced this before.

Note whats good then take yourself for a nice coffee and pastry or luncheon. This study trip will cost you what you eat and give you an invaluable base of information to learn what it is you Want.

Have Fun!

Kaaren