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Dleeveless garments are meant to be 1/2 inch higher ( closer arm hole) than non sleeveless garments. If you are satisfied with your sloper I suggest tyou try a sleeveless shell to make sure its needed. The next update has some significant changes in the pricness dresses. The sloper bodice has 18% arm hole ease, where most garments that are fitted have 20% arm hole ease. This means that am arm hole depth of 5 shoulder print in a shell or fitted shirt at approx 6.0 inches of arm hole depth. a 12 inch bicep shoulder result in between 4.87 and a 5 inch front arm hole depth .' The arm hole front is controlled by arm hole depth the arm hole in back is controlled by the side length. To change the overall shape/depth of the arm hole tghe arm hole depth and the side length would need to be adjusted. That is presuming the slope is correct. The frotn slope will determine the angle of the shoulder from shoulder point to center front waist. IF the slope is too long the symptom will be a wrinkle on the diagonal above the bottom of the arm pit. Kaaren Kaaren patrns4u@aol.com | ||||
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No, it wouldn't be side length but it may be that your original sloper armhole depth is too low, i.e.: Armhole Depth number too big. The armhole depth is measured very high at the level of the back underarm crease, the sloper lowers the armhole by about 3/4" to 1-1/4" as a minimum wearable depth. Standard ease, Casual and Comfort patterns lower the armhole by a further amount for their sleeveless styles and even more again for styles with sleeves. Thus if your chart Armhole Depth is too low, the patterns increase the problem.
To raise the armhole depth per garment and without changing the chart numbers go to Ease or Fit on the blue menu tower. (with sloper and reference lines off). Change the number in the Armhole Depth box accordingly. It is possible to enter 0 or a negative number to raise the armhole for this pattern, but that would indicate your chart Armhole Depth is wrong (too big), in which case you should address that at some point. Tessa ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ DS Deluxe v6.13 on desktop v6.09 on laptop | ||||
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| <DressShopBob> |
You should be careful about making assumptions about princess line pattern armhole depths based on how that looks on-screen or on the flat pattern. The princess line bust dart is incorporated into the shoulder or armhole. When that is done, the pattern outside that point (which includes the bottom of the armhole) is rotated outwards, around the bust point. This will make the bottom of the armhole appear to be lower than it will end up being after you sew the princess lines together. So, do not try to make it match the depth of the armhole on any non-princess line pattern. On papter, princess line SHOULD be lower. | ||
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You are right Bob and I agree, the princess and sloper patterns cannot be compared on screen. I don't think my post suggested that. My only reference to the display sloper was that it be turned off and that was only to ensure the Fit Tool numbers were not inaccurate. I was addressing this from a garment point of view. I understood that Rose Marie had made a muslin trial garment and found the actual garment too low at the underarm. My post answered her direct questions and suggested why the armhole might be too low and how she could raise it. Tessa ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ DS Deluxe v6.13 on desktop v6.09 on laptop | ||||
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| <Rose Marie> |
Thank you Kaaren, Bob and Inspired Sewing for all the responses. Yes, I did make a muslin and no, I was not comparing the Shoulder Princess pattern to my sloper. I was commenting on how it was fitting with the first muslin. With the second muslin, I raised the bottom of the armscye 1 full inch. This is the first sleeveless item I have attempted with Dress Shop. I am thinking that although I have a sloper and it fits, it does have sleeves. I should go back and make up the sloper again but do it sleeveless to see if the armhole depth is an accurate number. When I do a sleeveless sloper, I should see 3/4 inch to 1 1/4 inches of space in the area between the top of the sleeveless garment and my armpit. Is that correct? If I see more space than that, then my armhole depth may be incorrect? Is that right? If one corrects the armhole depth, is the side length also needing correction? That is if I shorten armhole depth, do I lengthen side length? Thanks again for the information. Rose Marie | ||
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Rose Marie, The program will automatically draft a sleeveless garment higher under the arm. I am thinking that your armhole depth might be too low to begin with. In the sloper it is really quite high under the arm. In real garments there is some ease. When I measure I put a ruler under the armpit - not quite tight, but no more than 3/4" below the armpit. Then I get down at eye level and mark the arm. Some people attach a piece of elastic to the ruler and bring it around the arm to get the placement for the mark. Either way, it needs to be straight out from the top of the ruler. I don't know of anyone who is making a sleeveless sloper as well as one with sleeves. | ||||
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should go back and make up the sloper again but do it sleeveless to see if the armhole depth is an accurate number. When I do a sleeveless sloper, I should see 3/4 inch to 1 1/4 inches of space in the area between the top of the sleeveless garment and my armpit. Is that correct? If I see more space than that, then my armhole depth may be incorrect? Is that right? If one corrects the armhole depth, is the side length also needing correction? That is if I shorten armhole depth, do I lengthen side length? Thanks again for the information. Rose Marie --- Yes , yes and yes. You udnerstand it very well! Kaaren patrns4u@aol.com | ||||
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