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Fitted vs. Semi-Fitted Pants

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03 November 2005, 04:35 AM
Gayle
Fitted vs. Semi-Fitted Pants
Is only difference in these two the width of the leg? Is the crotch supposed to be different? Is the torso supposed to be the same? I'm wanting to know the intention of the design.

Using 6.13 with current patch. Printed 25% pages of my measurements fitted (F), semi-fitted (SF), as well as RTW20 fitted, semi-fitted. Turned page upside down, aligned grainline and knee & thigh lines to compare pants above the thigh, and used a light table.

Common difference in all--F vs. SF: semi-fitted leg is a bit wider than fitted. No surprise with this.

Same in all--F vs. SF: waist, abs, hips, front crotch curve.

Same in RTW20 only--F vs. SF: back crotch curve

Difference in my measurements only--F vs. SF: back crotch curve is LOWER in Fitted (I would have expected this in semi-fitted). Looks like it will be as much as 1/4" difference in 100% (no more but definitely more than 1/8").


DSPro 6.14 (w/patch a) ... Fashion Designer 1&2, Fit Tool, Princess Designer
Activewear II, Spring/Summer 2005, Illusions, Ultimate Outerwear, Ultimate Pants
Add-Ons 1-14, Pattern Sets 1044-46, 1049-52
Windows XP

03 November 2005, 07:14 AM
Kaaren Hoback
The primary difference in the fitted versus semi fitted pant which remains unchanged for many years now is the difference in the leg.

By turning the 1/4 scale pant patterns upside down and viewing with hem at top, matching hem line and grain line you can view all the differnces. Theres is a slight difference in how it "seats" due to the extra width at top of thigh.

However, if you change the pant from darted waist ( either one of them) to elastic waist you will see more torso room as the waist is drafted to the hip circumference for ease in pulling on.The extra leg width starts at the crotch point and increases proportionatly down the leg changing the "hang" on the leg.

It was found long ago that many users who elected the semi fitted pant also elected the elastic waist option.


This semi fitted version has long been popular as a quick and easy more relaxed fit than the fitted dress pant .

It doesnt contour the leg and was never meant to.

You can of course adjust ease at abds and hips, select pleats which you finish as a release pleats and alter the design as you see fit using a variety of tools.

You can continue your comparisons through all the fit levels to find the pant that best suits the needs of both the individual and the fabric planned.

I have one pair of semi fitted pants with the no roll no waist band finish and side zipper I wear a LOT in summer.Made of light weight linen in a sage green they are cool and comfortable on the hottest days when shorts just aren't appropriate to the days functions.

Kaaren


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