I am trying to help a friend with her pants sloper. We are having trouble because she is very sway back. She can pinch out about 2" excess material at the waist center back. Seems I have heard this discussed before, but because I didn't have the problem myself, I didn't pay much attention to it. Could someone please shed some kind of light how we are to get rid of the excess materail at the center back waist. I do see in the darts tab where there is adjustment for the center back dart. But, I don't understand what or how this works. I've put in different number there, but don't see a change.

Thanks for any help,
Rena
DS Pro 6.17

quote:

I am trying to help a friend with her pants sloper. We are having trouble because she is very sway back. She can pinch out about 2" excess material at the waist center back. Seems I have heard this discussed before, but because I didn't have the problem myself, I didn't pay much attention to it. Could someone please shed some kind of light how we are to get rid of the excess materail at the center back waist. I do see in the darts tab where there is adjustment for the center back dart. But, I don't understand what or how this works. I've put in different number there, but don't see a change.

When you are just trying to learn what a particular setting does, enter big numbers. In this case, there is some default amount. Add 4" to that amount and enter that number. Watch the shape of the back crotch curve. You should see what it is doing.

Now, you can enter smaller numbers, more in line with what you need. To guesstimate what you need, pinch excess fabric out with your fingers. IF you can grab 2" of excess, then add 2" to whatever default amount is shown for center back dart width and try that.

This could take several passes to get right and comfortable, so stick with muslins until you think you have it.

Hope this helps....

Thanks Bob,
I have actually tried doing just as you suggested, but for the life of me I don't see any change. I've tried doing it with 1 dart, 2 darts and no darts and still I see no change. When you say I should be seeing a change in the back crotch curve. Should the change I see be at the waist level, as if it were actually putting a dart in the center back?

Rena
DS Pro 6:17

quote:

I have actually tried doing just as you suggested, but for the life of me I don't see any change. I've tried doing it with 1 dart, 2 darts and no darts and still I see no change. When you say I should be seeing a change in the back crotch curve. Should the change I see be at the waist level, as if it were actually putting a dart in the center back?

The center back waist dart is built INTO the crotch curve. It is not a separate dart, with dart lines and cap. The angle of the top several inches of the crotch curve just tilts a bit more. That acts as a dart in that center line.

Sorry I misunderstood the question. Hope this is clearer...

Thanks Bob,
I do believe I understand what you are saying. I will work with it a bit more and see if I can get the results I am needing.

Rena

quote:

I have actually tried doing just as you suggested, but for the life of me I don't see any change. I've tried doing it with 1 dart, 2 darts and no darts and still I see no change. When you say I should be seeing a change in the back crotch curve. Should the change I see be at the waist level, as if it were actually putting a dart in the center back?

I just realized that I have the latest patch file installed and I forgot to ask if you did. And, I also forgot that there was an item in the patch fix list that relates to the center back waist dart. I wrote it and forgot it. Very sorry...

The latest patch file for DS 6.17 is at:

http://www.LivingsoftNW.com/builds/DS6_17_patch9.exe


Below is the list of changes in it. The last one is the one you probably need. Sorry....

Build 6.17 patch file (last posted patch9) changes:

1. Princess line patterns did not draft properly for users whose front waist measurement was greater than front bust, ab, and hip.

2. If no pattern was selected when changing measurement sets OR if you choose "No Blouse" or "No Pants", a Windows error occurred.

3. Princess line patterns did not draft properly if the armhole bottom was rotated to a position lower than the bust line. Caused a large bulge to the side seam, not to be confused with the shape you get when the side seam is tapered above the bust to the now narrower armhole width.

4. Princess line patterns did not draft properly when using children or men's measurements.

5. Front and back side seam lengths did not match for some flared princess line patterns, depending on measurements used.

6. The princess bodice side seam lines were not drafting.

7. Blouse finish options for curved in back and shirt tail in back were not working properly.

8. Pants center back waist dart was not adjusting properly.

OH! I bet that is it. I will download it now and see what happens. Thanks so much for helping me out with this.

Have a Blessed Night,
Rena

A BIG THANKS BOB! That did the trick. The center back dart is now working properly for me. I think what was confusing for me was the fact that I had never tried to use it before, so I wasn't sure whether it was working or not. Now that I see what it is suppose to be doing it is so obvious that this is what we are needing to use to fix her excess material problem in the center back.

Thanks again,
Rena

You're quite welcome. Sorry I keep forgetting about the patch file and what is in it! :-)

If you can pinch 2 " ( do measure it so you have an exact number) INCREASE the number that is in the center back waist dart box under darts in MPD. If the number in the box is 2.1 make it 4.1.

The CBWD determines the angle of the back crotch fork.

Kaaren

Thanks Kaaren,
I just knew I had learned this in one of your classes. But I could not get it to work, so I was beginning to second guess myself. Then Bob was nice enough to help me and told me the same information you are saying. Anyways, he remembered that there was a patch that I need to download to make the correction so the CB Dart would work. I was beginning to think I was going crazier because I knew I wasn't seeing a change when I put the numbers in the CB dart box. But, it is all corrected now and working beautifully the way it was designed to do.

Thanks Again, and have a Blessed Day!
Rena