I am almost complete with my bodice sloper -- only 5 versions. I still have one problem. There is an extra pleat of material that goes from the bust over to the armhole seam -slats at a 45 degree angle from the armhole seam down to the breast. Is this because my front armhole depth is too large or can you help me identify the problem? Everything else seems to work well.
Thanks

First draw the full, slope, bust depth, across chest, high bust and bust lines ON the sloper

now put it on and pin out the excess

see which lines CROSS the pleat.

remember pleats (excess) POINT to the problem and puckers ( too tight) START at the problem.

Measure the affected line on the pinned out sloper- fix the chart
done
Kaaren

I have a similar problem with the sloper but the pleat at my front armhole is vertical -- about an extra inch on one side. I have adjusted the across chest measurement and shoulder length measurements but the pleat is still there. It seems like those measurements need to be smaller while the bust measurement is a little too small.

Which measurements would be similar to taking a somewhat diagonal vertical pleat in the armhole from the middle pointing up?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Interesting -- my name comes up as Finfwe but I didn't exactly choose such a strange name -- I'm gingerlew39 (or Ginger for short!)

Did you measure your paper pattern after you changed the measurement to see if the correction was actually changed by the program the second time? Several times, I have noted that the pattern never changed, somehow stuck or something.

I did what Kaaren suggested -- I put on my sloper and drew the full length front, shoulder slope front, bust depth, across chest, high bust and bust lines ON the sloper with a marker. Actually she said draw the lines first and then put on the sloper, but it was much easier to draw the lines AFTER I had the sloper on.

I then pinned out the excess and noticed which lines crossed the pleat. For me, the high bust need to be reduced. The pleat on one side was 1/4 inch (small), but that is 1/2 inch each pleat, and I had pleats on both sides, so I reduced the measurement by an inch and I think I could take a little more. It certainly fixed the problem.

This way of addressing issues on the sloper was very helpful and really helped me identify the problem. Thanks, Kaaren

This is always my advice
Transfer the measurement lines directly to the sloper that needs fixing.

Put the sloper back on and pin out the wrinkles or slash the puckers till you get a smooth fit.

Remove the sloper and remeasure the lines that cross the wrinkle/pucker.

Remember that wrinkles point at the problem and puckers start at the problem.

Correct the chart to the new measurementrs taken from the torso sloper.

Kaaren

You are welcome glad you got the sloper working,.now start having soem real fun!
Kaaren