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posted
Hi everyone

Can someone explain ab averaging to me? I have forgotten what it means and can't find anything in the user's manual. Would it affect a skirt? Oh my, did I say skirt? Wow that's something new and different!
 
Posts: 147 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Jane Krychiw:
Can someone explain ab averaging to me?


Jane,

The following is post to the list that Bob sent a few months ago explaining Ab-averaging. I saved it so that I would have it when I started working on my pant sloper.

quote:

------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: RE : Re: mishap : ease in semifitted pants and ...
From: DressShopBob@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 20:27:24 EST

Ab Averaging was a "feature" that was put into Dress Shop for those cases where the pants or skirts side seam from waist to ab to hip had more curvature up high (at ab level) in the front and down low (hip level) in the back. These mis-matched curves do not sew together well. In those cases, we smooth the curve (optinally) by increasing back ab and decreasing front ab (ab averaging).

The net effect is that you get the same ab fit as before, but it is evened out between front and back. The side seam will not be as straight. But, a straight side seam on the curve of your hip is not always obviously straight in any
case. Usually the difference is not noticeable.

If you do not like it, you can turn the feature off (bottom of the Ease dialog). We do not recommend that, though.

Why do darted waist lines not do this? The dart widens the waist by the dart width. Side seam is not as abruptly curved. Ab averaging is not needed in that case.

- Bob Clardy


MPD Pro 4.00a, DS 9.09a, Win 7, IE10, HP Deskjet 7000 & Officejet Pro K8600
 
Posts: 208 | Location: in Texas | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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hi everyone

Thank you Vicki for your response to my ab averaging question. I am still a little foggy as to whether it will help me with my problem or not. I have made about 5-6 pant slopers in the past week or so and I am real close but I am still have a problem with a jodhpur type bulge in my side seam. I have adjusted the fth and I have remeasured my hip and abs. After adjusting the fth measurement it helped but not completely so I remeasured. This was all done with 6.92 with the patch from May I think. I also remeasured my upper thigh and mid thigh and realized I had these two meas. reversed so I corrected them. I am about to do my pants sloper with the sloper pattern in 6.10 and am wondering if turning off the ab averaging will help. Thanks for any help anyone can give me.
Smiler
 
Posts: 147 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Jayne
It seems for me that the jodpur effect is removed by paying attention to the shape of the back crotch curve. Its worth looking at it. Sounds like you are fairly flat in the hip area. If the crotch curve has a more L shape it helps improve the back of the pants up around the posterior.


DS 7 Standard
Addons 3, 5,9,10 & 14
Sets 1008,1019,1032,1045 & 1052
MPD Pro 1.04
Home Dec Sampler
 
Posts: 13 | Location: Melbourne,Australia | Registered: 09 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Jane Krychiw:
am still have a problem with a jodhpur type bulge in my side seam. I have adjusted the fth and I have remeasured my hip and abs. After adjusting the fth measurement it helped but not completely so I remeasured. Smiler


Jane,
Keep raising that FTH until the jodpur goes away. I remember you said you raised it 1/4", that is not a whole lot. You are using fitted pants, or the sloper right? I switched to making only the slim fit pants, and no jodpurs and no extra in the thigh area. Print out 25% scale of each pant and take a look.

When I made fitted pants, I raised my FTH about 2" to get the jodpur to go away. If you raised it only 1/4", go higher! Big Grin
Linda Flint
 
Posts: 139 | Location: New York | Registered: 07 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The fitted pant offers no option to change the thigh amounts. They draft directly from the hip to the knee. The thigh numbers never fall into the equations. This is a lovely curve the hip and drop down nicely. It is a fuller back area.

The pant to draft for thigh control is slim fit which drafts from the hip to the thigh to the mid thigh to the knee etc.


Hugs,

Connie A - Princeville HI
______________
MPD Pro 2 2009
28 patterns & all collections-
DS7 Pro Fashion Designer Suite 7 - Everything-
Hat Shop 1.1update
Win XP Pro sp3 - IE 8 -
HPDJ wireless 6100 series
 
Posts: 101 | Location: Princeville, Hawaii (Kauai) | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hello Connie

Thank you for your post, but it wasn't the question I was asking. I know the differences of the fitted pant and the slim fit pant.

I am making the pants sloper, not the fitted pants. I have jodhpurs on the side seams between the abs and knee region that I want to get rid of.

I also would like to know if I turn off ab averaging does anyone on the list think it would help my jodhpurs?
 
Posts: 147 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Linda

Wow! you really raised the fth that much! I was worried that would bring it up to about my waist!<ggg> Thanks I will keep plugging.
 
Posts: 147 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Pi

Actually, I am quite rounded in the hip area. My butt is pretty flat though. In ready to wear the back crotch is kind of like this _/ If there was a way I could push my tummy up to my bust I would be a happy camper! ggg
 
Posts: 147 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I think you need to keep raising your floor to hip until the curve seems more correct. That is the correction that solves the jodpher effect you are describing, as far as I know. If you have made a sloper, you can see this change by pinning out from the ab area at the sides to see if that brings the hip curve to your actual body curve better.

Pinch out enough fabric to see the change. When it feels more correct, take it off and measure that pinch amount and double it. Raise your floor to hip by adding that amount to the number. Check the quarter scale, is it better?

Hope that helps.


Hugs,

Connie A - Princeville HI
______________
MPD Pro 2 2009
28 patterns & all collections-
DS7 Pro Fashion Designer Suite 7 - Everything-
Hat Shop 1.1update
Win XP Pro sp3 - IE 8 -
HPDJ wireless 6100 series
 
Posts: 101 | Location: Princeville, Hawaii (Kauai) | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Jane Krychiw:
I have jodhpurs on the side seams between the abs and knee region that I want to get rid of.
I also would like to know if I turn off ab averaging does anyone on the list think it would help my jodhpurs?

Pin out on your garment sloper where the problem is. Print out a 50% copy of the pattern mark on this mini pattern the areas where you pinned the garment.
Now turn ab averaging off and print a new 50% pattern. Overlay the patterns against the light and see if it changed like you want.
Move the FTH, print out, compare.

It's much easier to play with paper for a while until you think you are getting closer, then try another garment. I prefer 50% printouts because I can see the differences better than at 25% yet it doesn't use tons of paper.


Tessa
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DS Deluxe
v6.13 on desktop
v6.09 on laptop

 
Posts: 141 | Location: Edmonton, Canada | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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adjust the floor to hip
if the jodphpur is up high lower it, if the jodphur is lower near top of thigh raise it
Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Jane, as long as your side seam and split are correct and all you have wrong is the jodphurs, raise the FTH but not so high that is crosses the ab line!

Tina
 
Posts: 36 | Registered: 15 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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This is one of the reasons I have two measurement charts. To get rid of the jodhpur effect I had to raise my floor to hip to only 6 inches from my waist. It makes the blouses too short on those with hip level defaults. I know I could change each time to lengthen the blouses, but easier to just have a chart to do it for me. Don't be afraid to raise it up to get rid of the jodhpurs. Just be aware it will affect the blouses ect. that use that hip measurement for the default length. Not a big deal if you are aware of it.
 
Posts: 67 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Tina

Thanks for your suggestion. I will give it some more work.

When is your next boot camp?
 
Posts: 147 | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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