Adjusted (decreased 2"!!) across back according to instructions posted by Kaaren. Photo posted at club under bodice slopers--still not perfect and front is off a little also. I need to know if either front or back needs more adjustment.

Also I cut out two camp shirts yesterday before learning of 6.10 armhole issue--what do I need to look for? Or should I just print out new camp shirt back pattern piece, compare and recut pieces if possible?

Thanks, Elizabeth

I want to make this very clear this is not a bug its a change to drafting code.
so there isnt a fix but a really short "class" on how to adjust to the change.

two reasons for the change
1 ladies with very wide across chest measurements compared to very narrow shoulders couldnt get a good arm hole that would cover the "extra width"

Now they can!

two revolves around the possibilities of extending the shoulder further and having the across chest maintain a good arm hole when the shoulder is extended.

That opens up many new design possibilities suchs as but not limited to camps shirts and just about anything mens!

I cant answer the question...you posed about what about those camp shirts..they may be fine.or at least "good" if you have a great big ugly bulge.they won't be.if its moderate on the camp shirt.its fine. If the back arm hole looks normal they are fine.

if it looks whacked....stop before cutting fabric and never ever waste fabric again....
pattern prep, ask questions..yada yada....Kaaren



.

Kaaren,

Sorry for the misuse of terminiology "fix." I understand that we are all going to love the new improved armhole.

Thought I had done all my pattern preps--the back of the camp shirt bodices looked fine, 1/4 scale looked good on MIA and I did not consider folding the sleeve on the grain line to see if notches matched--a new one to add to my list.

Good news: I basted one of the camp shirts together and it is ok--because of the looseness of the pattern and the chosen fabric. Frankly, it is still a much nicer fit than "store bought."

I did post at club pics of the princess blouse w/sloper and my new adjusted sloper for your consideration. I would appreciate it if you could give them a quick look so I can be sure I am on the right track before I undertake anything else.

Thank you for all your help and time.
Elizabeth

quote:

I did not consider folding the sleeve on the grain line to see if notches matched--a new one to add to my list.

I missed this somewhere -- another step in pattern prep? If they don't match ... then what?

Is this info in that pdf doc we need to download?

I noticed a difference between my slopers between 6.09 and 6.10...that may be a good thing I don't know yet. But my question is....will I see approximately that same difference in all my bodices and tops between 6.09 and the new update? Cheryl

So, Kaaren, are we still looking for a similar 1" balance, front to back, in the new build?

quote:

Originally posted by Gayle:


Is this info in that pdf doc we need to download?

Ok, I'm way behind - what PDF doc? I'm new to dress shop 6 - just got past the sloper stage - although I couldn't resist the sew quick patterns - and there seems to be so much to this program, if I can just figure out how/where to find everything.

So, back to the question, what pdf document?

The pricness garments and others that "break" into ther arm hole are more "sensitive" to the flag being removed than some of the older silhouettes.so the "degree" may vary.principal remains the same.
the deal is if you want the same arm hole a minor change to across length shoudkl replicate the arm hole you like in ALL garments.
Kaaren

Kaaren

So, Kaaren, are we still looking for a similar 1" balance, front to back, in the new build?

Yes thats arm hole depth and that is NOT effected by the cross chest measurement.
Kaaren

Here is the text sans the graphics that is in the PDF file now posted in both Cluyb and class Forums.
Change to the Across Chest Draft Code in Dress Shop Version 6.10

There was a change to the drafting code for arm hole shaping in Dress Shop update 6.10

What was changed?

For many years we have had a “flag” that has limited the across chest from going too wide and making a convex or bulging armhole shape.

This means if your across chest front or back was too long the program noted that and corrected it for you every time you drafted something with an arm hole.

You never knew it was too long because the program “fixed it”. It is generally most obvious on back, but check both!

Why did we change it?

Technology has evolved so we could now offer some new designs that needed more extended shoulders than what we have been limited to because of the “flag”.

Things like the Camp shirts (released in Sew Quick Summer casuals),as well as many men’s wear patterns which require a shoulder extension greater than the 30% of shoulder length that we have been limited to.

To allow the shoulder to extend a significant distance we had to remove the flag controlling the across chest so a proper arm hole shape could be maintained.


How to check and what to do?

Do you need to make a new sloper? NO! Keep reading. It is much easier than that.

1. First bring up an armhole princess blouse.

2. Click the FIT or EASE button and find across back ease 1”

3. Highlight the 1 inch and enter 0. Click redraft.

4. Go to view, select pattern, sloper



Please note that the upper portion of the arm hole traces the same line as the red sloper line.

The across chest line is in red below the shoulder.

The across chest is the proper length.

NO change is necessary!



If you see an outward bulge into the arm hole the across chest line is too wide.

You will need to “true” the across chest entry on your chart.

Put on the grid and print that page which has the across chest line entering the arm hole in full scale. ( YOU can print just that one page in Print. First select FULL, then select the page and click print this page.

1.Measure from the red sloper line to the blue stitch line of the arm hole.

2. Multiply that number by 2. (It’s half the pattern, half the back.)

3. Decrease the across chest by the result.

It may well be that we still need the 1 inch default extra ease across the pattern back.

You may consider reducing the extra default 1 inch across back ease to either ½ inch or even 0 especially on knits. (Fit or ease tool depending which tools you own).

Where's the pdf file? I can't find it.

Where's the pdf file? I can't find it.

temproarily pulled..Kaaren