1. I printed out my pattern without seam allowances but I had added a 2" hem, is this removed by printing w/o seam allowances so now I add it back?

2. I want to make a pair of capris without a waistband...but a facing instead. Do I fold out the darts on the original pattern and then draw the facing, or make the facing identical, darts and all? Seems like there might be too much bulk like that...but the other way...can I get it to fit smoothly? Thank in advance. Michelle in TEXAS

A zero seam allowance also removes the hem allowance. Just manually draw it in, or if you're using a rotary cutter with arm adjust the arm.

Make your pants facing pattern with the darts folded away. I change the grainline on facing pieces like this to be horizontal (parallel to the waist line) like a waistband would be. The fabric has less stretch this way.

I print out the top pages of the pattern twice. Just need the pages that show the waist. Then I cut out the facing from these pages and fold out the darts from this facing pattern. Then I cut out the facing from that pattern after the darts have been folded out. Does this make sense? It makes the facing fit the waist exactly. If you measure down from the sewing line of the waist the width you want your facing to be, I usually use around 1 1/2 inches for waistband, you will have the darts marked exactly like the pattern. Fold them out and tape them in place. Makes it easy to match the waist exactly and no bulk from extra darts on the facing.

Cindy, that is a FANTASTIC suggestion...I just did it and it works beautifully...thanks so much for the info!

Tessa: I tried to reply to your post yesterday but was having a terrible time getting anything to load on this website, which is why I replied to you in private...but wanted to say publicly that you always respond when I have a question and I appreciate it so much.

quote:

Originally posted by InspiredSewing:
A zero seam allowance also removes the hem allowance. Just manually draw it in, or if you're using a rotary cutter with arm adjust the arm..

I don't see this, but I'd suggest turning on the grid to check the length on screen before and after adding extra hem allowance. Then measure length of the printout, too.