I was going to submit this as a problem report, but maybe the helpful people here have an answer: I finally developed a bodice sloper, and moved on to a simple casual top. Here's the problem:

Although there's lots of width across the bodice at underarm level, there seems to be tooic much fabric in the sleeve directly under the arm, and not enough in the bodice. And, this is really weird looking, the sleeve (short sleeve) is about an inch longer in the back than it is in the front.

Any suggestions?

Any advice on this question - should I just give up on ds measurements and start all over from scratch with mpd full measurements? No point in me trying standard measurements and tweaking, there's nothing near my "standard" and I don't have the patience.

What are others doing?

Does your sloper fit?

Presuming it does, you should know that it is possible to get excess fabric under the arm with a casual or unfitted top. With no bust dart, extra fabric can be added in this area, depending on your measurements.

You didn't say exactly which pattern you are using. These patterns are not designed to fit like the sloper. They have quite a bit more ease.

When you say that the sleeve is 1" longer in back, do you mean the sleeve or the back armhole depth (which you see with the sleeve tool). The back armhole depth should be about 1" longer than the front for most people.

I don't think you will find much, if any difference in the draft in MPD for these garments. MPD is easier to use, and certainly easier for a new person to get started. I think you will like it a lot if you decide to get it.

What are others doing? Personally, I am going back and forth between the two programs, with the balance shifting towards MPD. Using DS is like stepping back into time after using MPD, but there are still things in DS that can't be drafted in MPD, like outerwear. I am working on some jackets, so that means I need to use DS for a while.

Thanks Carolyn - yes, I meant the sleeve, not the armhole. The sleeve droops down and is longer in the back. Also, this top has a bust dart, so that isn't the problem.

Judith,

I'm sorry, but I don't have a clear picture in my mind of what you think is the problem.

Which garment?

Does the sleeve itself droop down or is it the back of the garment.

I guess I need a picture. Words aren't always adequate for describing problems.

sorry, can't provide a pic, but I did send a problem report. And I don't know how else to say "the sleeve droops down in the back". Not the blouse. The sleeve. The hem of the sleeve is not parallel to the ground as it should be, it droops down in the back.

OH you do you mean theres a slight downward curve from center sleeve hem to underarm towards the back side of the underarm seam?

Quite intentional! so when you reach forward the back of the sleeve has room without riding up your forearm!

Kaaren

Ahh! I think I get it now. You are talking about the hem of the sleeve.

What you are asking for may be mathematically impossible. The DS sleeve is a high set-in sleeve. In order for the hem of the short sleeve to be parallel to the floor you need the sleeve cap height to be equal to the armhole depth. You can change the cap height, but it will most likely create more cap ease than you want.

A group of us had much discussion about this a couple years ago. We concluded that what we thought we wanted just couldn't be done.

Many RTW shirts that you see have dropped shoulders. The design (and lack of fit) allows the sleeve hem to be parallel to the floor (or nearly so). If you look closely at RTW garments with short sleeves and without the dropped shoulder you will see that the sleeve hems are not parallel to the floor. They slant up, just like the DS sleeves.