I gratefully recd a private msg with correct answer (from someone who shall remain nameless) regarding side seam length.

I was told DS takes chart AHD + 15% to determine total armhole depth at sideseam and subtracts 15% of chart AHD from ss len in chart. This was the explanation I was looking for in finding out why ss len was not drafting to chart measurement. My calculator confirmed this percentage was right on.

Are there any more gems like this listed anywhere?

Perhaps an explanation of when drafting fited bodice, waist dart only:
1)design ease disabled,
2)18" bust front and
3) -1" bust ease, the pattern still measures 18.75" at true bustline.

what percentages are in play here?

J

quote:

Originally posted by J Vallee:
I gratefully recd a private msg with correct answer (from someone who shall remain nameless) regarding side seam length.

I was told DS takes chart AHD + 15% to determine total armhole depth at sideseam and subtracts 15% of chart AHD from ss len in chart. This was the explanation I was looking for in finding out why ss len was not drafting to chart measurement. My calculator confirmed this percentage was right on.

Are there any more gems like this listed anywhere?

Perhaps an explanation of when drafting fited bodice, waist dart only:
1)design ease disabled,
2)18" bust front and
3) -1" bust ease, the pattern still measures 18.75" at true bustline.

what percentages are in play here?

J

I just checked out mine,and its so close to a spit of amounts by this.Thanks for sharing that with us.Now I want to learn more too.I bet everyones double checking now GGGG.

quote:

gratefully recd a private msg with correct answer (from someone who shall remain nameless) regarding side seam length.

I was told DS takes chart AHD + 15% to determine total armhole depth at sideseam and subtracts 15% of chart AHD from ss len in chart. This was the explanation I was looking for in finding out why ss len was not drafting to chart measurement. My calculator confirmed this percentage was right on.

There's only one problem...that's not exactly correct.
Each garment class gets its own value as to arm hole ease- a sloper is 18% and blouses more and a jacket much more.

There are also other considerations - it is not that simple. Which is why you never got a simple sentance reply.

Side length is determined on the front and used by the back and adjusted to the ype of garment, fit level and type of sleeve or sleeveless beign used.

Sleeveless garments are always about a 1/2 inch closer to underarm than one with sleeves so the upper part of the bra and doesnt show.so the arm hole ease is DIFFERENT- which means the side lengths sleeveless versus with sleeves are different.

the side length on the chart is based on underarm to waist but the position of the waist is determined by different factors from a bodice to a blouse to a dress or pant suit.

Sorry- there just is not a simple answer to this.

Kaaren

Sorry for not being clear that I was referring to sloper only for this 15%.

J