25 January 2006, 06:18 AM
rjwClose Fit
I made the close fit stretch raglan blouse. There is around 5" of extra ease around the hips. The fit tool states that there is 2 1/16. This was just about the amount I wanted. However, it drafted with considerably more than the amount stated in the fit tool or displayed on the reference lines/reference amounts. When I turned on the grid, it was obvious that there was excess. I do not understand why there is so much excess ease in a close fit blouse. How do I fix it?
Renee Wuenstel
25 January 2006, 06:28 AM
LlantrisantDid you use the stretch value, and type in the amount of stretch for the fabric you were using?
25 January 2006, 09:02 AM
Kaaren HobackThe blouse is an closer to "standard fit" than stretch. reduce the ease.as desired.
The stretch factor at default may NOT be the actual fabric stretch. Figure the fabrics stretch and enter that, and in addition make sure the rgain is perfect or it may stretch more.
The shoulders are extensed the arm hole dropped so the width at bust WILL effect the hip at width.
If bust is considerably larger than hip you will get extra width at hip.
I get about 2 inches of ease at hip.
please state which program and version number.
Kaaren
25 January 2006, 10:53 AM
DressShopBobquote:
I made the close fit stretch raglan blouse. There is around 5" of extra ease around the hips. The fit tool states that there is 2 1/16. This was just about the amount I wanted. However, it drafted with considerably more than the amount stated in the fit tool or displayed on the reference lines/reference amounts. When I turned on the grid, it was obvious that there was excess. I do not understand why there is so much excess ease in a close fit blouse. How do I fix it?
Your question cannot be answered from this. There is no information regarding the ab or waist. If ab front is greater than hip front (which it is for many), your blouse will draft to the wider measure (as it should). The extra ease you get at hip is then what we tend to refer to as "consequential ease" or "collateral ease". You cannot adjust that. It happens because of other pattern drafting rules elsewhere in your pattern.
For a proper answer to this type of question, only a problem report will help since that automatically includes the measurement set used, so the person trying to answer you can look at all the factors that might effect ease.