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drafted cardigan without bust dart.When joining side seams, there are four folds hanging down from seam joint.They start from the sleeve front at the lower dot and same at the back. ? the folds appear to be where the dart would have been. how do I get rid of these folds. My side lenght is 10.125 and the pattern drafted with a side lenght of 11".7/8 This seems to be the amount of the folds. It looks like elephant butt folds.
 
Posts: 11 | Registered: 23 November 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Folds and wrinkles POINT at the problem, puckers or too tight pinches START at the problem.

Some folks need Darts! and this garment is undarted. BUT you can use the side dart to add one.

If there is excess width under the arm you will get mostly vertical folds.

The twin set cardigan was designed for a sweater knit to be worn with a knit stretch shell. No stretch entry was used in the default so you could enter what you needed but, this was never meant as a fitted over the shell sweater.

If I misunderstand where the excess is... let me know the side lengths did match up when I just drafted it.
Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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thanks Karren, i remembered you said I need darts, just trying to make a straight jacket.wondering if I could just cut up the side to a place on the armhole curveto take out this dart excess.The folds are horizontal.I am not using a knit. micro fiber.prehaps a wrong pattern was used?
Thanks Catherine
 
Posts: 11 | Registered: 23 November 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
thanks Karren, i remembered you said I need darts, just trying to make a straight jacket.wondering if I could just cut up the side to a place on the armhole curveto take out this dart excess.The folds are horizontal.I am not using a knit. micro fiber.prehaps a wrong pattern was used?
Thanks Catherine


Oh boy huffing and puffing as I climb the many steps up my soap box...(meant to be funny ggg)

Just because a pattern CAN work within the style lines and fit levels it MAY NOT be what you envision due to your
body shape
bust dimensions
fabric used
fit level selected

I remember you as having a very nice shape and are talented as a sewist.

A boxy loose fit with excess under the arm (comes with the unfitted side seam that doesnt come inward at high bust but drafts from bust to hip in a straight line) may seem in tune with your garment concept but can not and never will enhance your curvaceous body.

A twin set as it was designed with a thin sweater knit for the shell and a looser fit to wear the cardigan over it works in a knit using an acceptable stretch factor which helps conform to the body shape and with a dart for those gals with a well formed bust line.

You cando a save on this by going back and pinning in some shaping along the side seam but will have to take some thought and effort at the underarm sleeve join..

Next time select something with a side/elegant dart and drape the planned fabric on a dress form or even just you standing in front of a mirror to see if it behaves like the design concept in your head.

This ponteille version is much like what was in mind when the design was created. My personal twin sets are in winter white "baby yarn" wool with small seed pearls stitch along neck and center front, and a very fit jersey knit set in black. Both have over 75% stretch factors.


patrns4u@aol.com


Imagetwinset.gif (94 Kb, 29 downloads) twin set
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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you are right.Have looked at the body shape and i think I will have to do another sloper. sholders have moved forewards and sholder line out. back to the drawing board.going to check flights. Where are you now?
catherine
 
Posts: 11 | Registered: 23 November 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'm still in Nevada and DH is going home to deal with property in NY for the summer.I will join him 3rd week of July for a couple weeks only so will be here for the majority of the year this year.

Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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