It seems like lots of folks are confused about armholes and a few other things in the newest download. Is this a learning curve, or will we be getting more information, or another update? I downloaded 6.10 but didn't have time to install it. Now I'm wondering if I should just wait if I'm not going to be utilizing the newest pattern sets. What's the best advice? I have looked (truly) for the .pdf (Kaaren's) and can't seem to track it down. I couldn't find the site that doesn't require membership in order to view it. Hate feeling confused, but today it seems to be the state my mind is residing in!

Linda in VA

Hi Linda,


I do not have any bodice issues with 6.10. So these posts are not what everyone is experiencing.

If you have not installed the new software yet, I suggest you please be sure to print quarter scales, 50% scales, and a full bodice pattern and what ever you used as your pant sloper with measurement lines, numbers, and the grid on. Have this for verifying new numbers. You won't need a full remeasure if you need to change. You want to print just the page where there is an issue, if any, and count your grids. Good idea before any update, by the way.

Kaaren created a pdf document that is available on both of her web areas. But in a nutshell, what I understand is happening.

Before 6.10, the bodice back had a setting that prevented an over large measurement from drafting the arm hole too wide at across chest back. This was called a flag. So no matter what number you entered, it would stop the armhole curve at that maximum number. This means, you could have a wrong number and not know it on the old bodice sloper.

The new program removed that maximum number flag. So now an over large number will create a bulge at the back across chest line. It is very easy to see if you have this. We all know a correct armhole shape. If you have this issue, the armhold curve won't look right.

One other thing to check. Open the armhole princess - go to back piece - go to view and select show sloper- If your sloper bulges out, you will see it here too. You might see it just on the sloper itself.

The fix... print the new sloper bodice page that has this area with the grid on. compare it to your original sloper. Count how much you need to change to make the new sloper go back to the old sloper shape and change your across back chest only that amount. Then re-look at your new sloper. Reprint that page and verify they are now the same. Quite simple.

This new draft is allowing extended shoulders for the first time. This will allow much more flexibility for mens wear styles and others. It gives a much truer armhole - so I think this will be a super change for us.

Those having issues with this didn't have correct numbers on previous versions. Now they will have accurate numbers allowing much more flexibility in designing, in my opinion.

Hi Linda, here is Kaaren's last post with info on armhole. The PDF has been temporarily pulled. Hope it makes sense. The Armhole change doen't affect everyone. Helen.
KAAREN: Here is the text sans the graphics that is in the PDF file now posted in both Cluyb and class Forums.
Change to the Across Chest Draft Code in Dress Shop Version 6.10

There was a change to the drafting code for arm hole shaping in Dress Shop update 6.10

What was changed?

For many years we have had a “flag” that has limited the across chest from going too wide and making a convex or bulging armhole shape.

This means if your across chest front or back was too long the program noted that and corrected it for you every time you drafted something with an arm hole.

You never knew it was too long because the program “fixed it”. It is generally most obvious on back, but check both!

Why did we change it?

Technology has evolved so we could now offer some new designs that needed more extended shoulders than what we have been limited to because of the “flag”.

Things like the Camp shirts (released in Sew Quick Summer casuals),as well as many men’s wear patterns which require a shoulder extension greater than the 30% of shoulder length that we have been limited to.

To allow the shoulder to extend a significant distance we had to remove the flag controlling the across chest so a proper arm hole shape could be maintained.


How to check and what to do?

Do you need to make a new sloper? NO! Keep reading. It is much easier than that.

1. First bring up an armhole princess blouse.

2. Click the FIT or EASE button and find across back ease 1”

3. Highlight the 1 inch and enter 0. Click redraft.

4. Go to view, select pattern, sloper



Please note that the upper portion of the arm hole traces the same line as the red sloper line.

The across chest line is in red below the shoulder.

The across chest is the proper length.

NO change is necessary!



If you see an outward bulge into the arm hole the across chest line is too wide.

You will need to “true” the across chest entry on your chart.

Put on the grid and print that page which has the across chest line entering the arm hole in full scale. ( YOU can print just that one page in Print. First select FULL, then select the page and click print this page.

1.Measure from the red sloper line to the blue stitch line of the arm hole.

2. Multiply that number by 2. (It’s half the pattern, half the back.)

3. Decrease the across chest by the result.

It may well be that we still need the 1 inch default extra ease across the pattern back.

You may consider reducing the extra default 1 inch across back ease to either ½ inch or even 0 especially on knits. (Fit or ease tool depending which tools you own).

patrns4u@aol.com

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quote:

Originally posted by Linda in VA:
It seems like lots of folks are confused about armholes and a few other things in the newest download. Is this a learning curve, or will we be getting more information, or another update? I downloaded 6.10 but didn't have time to install it. Now I'm wondering if I should just wait if I'm not going to be utilizing the newest pattern sets. What's the best advice? I have looked (truly) for the .pdf (Kaaren's) and can't seem to track it down. I couldn't find the site that doesn't require membership in order to view it. Hate feeling confused, but today it seems to be the state my mind is residing in!

Linda in VA