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I've fixed my back armhole as per Kaarens instructions and it's now exactly at the place it should be.

I've printed out my bodice sloper at 25% and there are two things different.

Firstly the shoulder darts are gone - these were very small and I'm glad to see the back of them - very fiddly. But the whole of the armhole on both sides is smaller and this is a larger amount than the dart take up and extends further than the dart.

Is this the change I should expect to see. has anyone else found this to be the case?

Teresa
 
Posts: 56 | Location: Greece | Registered: 07 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by teresa pople:
Firstly the shoulder darts are gone


Teresa,

Which Sloper pattern are you using?

Do NOT use the Bodice Sloper under the Blouse menu. It has a problem. Bob knows about it and will get it fixed. It is defaulting to "No-Shoulder Dart" incorrectly.

Use the Sloper option on the main pattern menu. It will correctly give you a shoulder dart. It should compare correctly to sloper printouts from prior DS levels.

Vicki


MPD Pro 4.00a, DS 9.09a, Win 7, IE10, HP Deskjet 7000 & Officejet Pro K8600
 
Posts: 208 | Location: in Texas | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by teresa pople:
I've fixed my back armhole as per Kaarens instructions and it's now exactly at the place it should be.

I've printed out my bodice sloper at 25% and there are two things different.

Firstly the shoulder darts are gone - these were very small and I'm glad to see the back of them - very fiddly. But the whole of the armhole on both sides is smaller and this is a larger amount than the dart take up and extends further than the dart.

Is this the change I should expect to see. has anyone else found this to be the case?

Teresa


Per a private response from Bob to a problem report I filed, you've fixed the WRONG sloper draft. In 6.10 there are two slopers drafting and the one without the back shoulder dart is NOT the one to use to proof your measurements or adjust armhole balance. We need to use the sloper WITH the shoulder dart

For me the correct sloper balances my armhole with a 1.08" difference between f & b depth. Using the sloper you used throws mine off to 1.25" difference -- but measurements should NOT be tweaked to bring this one into balance.

See my earlier post on this forum -- Topic is "Two DIFFERENT Bodice Slopers in Version 6.10"

Sorry, Teresa, a little more work to do yet ...

[note added using the cool "edit" feature after I submitted my original post]
Oops Vicki & I must have been responding at the same time and her post beat mine ... oh well, I'll leave mine in anyway

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Gayle,


DSPro 6.14 (w/patch a) ... Fashion Designer 1&2, Fit Tool, Princess Designer
Activewear II, Spring/Summer 2005, Illusions, Ultimate Outerwear, Ultimate Pants
Add-Ons 1-14, Pattern Sets 1044-46, 1049-52
Windows XP

 
Posts: 126 | Location: Ohio, USA | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Gayle,

Thanks for your reply.

've now been able to get the bodice sloper with darts as per your instructions - yippee.

BUT I can't get that sloper to use as a comparison to the princess blouse so that I can see if I need to adjust. Even though I choose that particular sloper, with the darts, it shows the one without the darts. Any idea where I go from here?
Best wishes, Teresa
 
Posts: 56 | Location: Greece | Registered: 07 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Even though I choose that particular sloper, with the darts, it shows the one without the darts.


gee,Teresa, I don't know

On the main DS screen, if you click on Patterns, you should get a drop-down menu:

Patterns
Slopers
Dress
Skirt
Blouse
etc

Are you clicking on the one, Slopers, and not the Blouse submenu? (Not that I don't believe you -- it just gets confusing sometimes Razzer)

Then both sloper patterns should appear on the screen -- bodice & pants. On mine I have a back shoulder dart. Maybe your measurements don't require one ???? If so, then maybe you're ok with the tweaks you've already made.


DSPro 6.14 (w/patch a) ... Fashion Designer 1&2, Fit Tool, Princess Designer
Activewear II, Spring/Summer 2005, Illusions, Ultimate Outerwear, Ultimate Pants
Add-Ons 1-14, Pattern Sets 1044-46, 1049-52
Windows XP

 
Posts: 126 | Location: Ohio, USA | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Gayle,

Yes I'm fine with all of this I can get the sloper that shows pants and the bodice with darts. But when I call up the armhole princess and then use the bodice sloper to overlay on the pattern as per the instructions it brings up the sloper without the darts - see what I mean? I can't get the sloper with the darts to appear at that time.

Sigh, Never mind. Thanks for all your help, I'm sure I'll get it eventually !!.

Best wishes, Teresa
 
Posts: 56 | Location: Greece | Registered: 07 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by teresa pople:
I can't get the sloper with the darts to appear at that time.


Teresa -

You're like me. Take a deep breath. Did you print out Kaaren's pdf file on the armhole change?

If you look at Kaaren's drawings, her sloper under the armhole princess blouse doesn't have a shoulder dart either. I just figured that was because the armhole princess is actually generated from a base pattern (block?) without a shoulder dart ... but then I have no idea what I'm doing most of the time. Smiler

I'm not sure that you need to be worrying about the shoulder dart if you are doing the exercise with the shoulder princess on 6.10. The only time you need to worry about the shoulder dart is if you are actually making your sloper garment.

I don't think the missing shoulder in the blouse/bodice sloper has anything to do with what you're seeing.

Vicki


MPD Pro 4.00a, DS 9.09a, Win 7, IE10, HP Deskjet 7000 & Officejet Pro K8600
 
Posts: 208 | Location: in Texas | Registered: 06 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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ohhh, I getcha now ....

guess the only option is to print 25% versions of both and play paper dolls

Gayle
 
Posts: 126 | Location: Ohio, USA | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes I'm fine with all of this I can get the sloper that shows pants and the bodice with darts. But when I call up the armhole princess and then use the bodice sloper to overlay on the pattern as per the instructions it brings up the sloper without the darts - see what I mean? I can't get the sloper with the darts to appear at that time.

Sigh, Never mind. Thanks for all your help, I'm sure I'll get it eventually !!.

You don't actually need the one with shoulder dart.

Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
You don't actually need the one with shoulder dart.


Ok ... so here's the condundrum

Currently there are two slopers drafting -- one with a back shoulder dart and one without. One (with the shoulder dart) has a balanced sleeve and therefore a good armscye.

Bob told me the one with the shoulder dart is the correct version.

So if we're using our sloper to compare with other patterns, shouldn't we be using the correct sloper?

Thanks.


DSPro 6.14 (w/patch a) ... Fashion Designer 1&2, Fit Tool, Princess Designer
Activewear II, Spring/Summer 2005, Illusions, Ultimate Outerwear, Ultimate Pants
Add-Ons 1-14, Pattern Sets 1044-46, 1049-52
Windows XP

 
Posts: 126 | Location: Ohio, USA | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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