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I make swimsuits for synchronized swimteams and have produced about 100. I have version 6.13. I knew there is an updated version but I am right in the middle of my season and don't want to change anything. My problem is with girls 5'8" and over. Even if I go in with the 5 basic specfic measurements and the front and back waist to floor, it generates a pattern which is usually 2-3 inches longer than the torso. What other measurement would anyone suggest to take in addition to these?
 
Posts: 22 | Registered: 09 September 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I make swimsuits for synchronized swimteams and have produced about 100. I have version 6.13. I knew there is an updated version but I am right in the middle of my season and don't want to change anything. My problem is with girls 5'8" and over. Even if I go in with the 5 basic specfic measurements and the front and back waist to floor, it generates a pattern which is usually 2-3 inches longer than the torso. What other measurement would anyone suggest to take in addition to these?



I would check Full Length Front of a few that did not fit well and compare that real measurement with what the wizard provided for you. Second candidate would be Floor To Waist Front. Third would be knit stretch amount. The default knit stretch value (vertical stretch - see the Fit dialog, near the bottom). If the default amount does not match the swimsuit fabric you are using, it would have this effect. There is a link there to an article about knit stretch and how to measure it.

Hope that helps...


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Posts: 1868 | Location: Austin, TX | Registered: 01 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Kaaren
I already go in and change the default fabric stretch to whatever my material is. I also change the default on the front waist to floor. I've made a point to get that specific measurement on these tall girls. It has happened both times to girls who are over 5'8 and not a "stick", have some womanly curves. I usually am making 9 suits at a time so this height really sticks out and all the other suits come out well, except theirs. I'll try the full length front but I'm thinking that I may have to look at the front length to waist along with the front waist to floor since this seems to be an issue of long torso vs. short torso. Would I be correct?
 
Posts: 22 | Registered: 09 September 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Since it is really the tall gals not all body types I would suspect the torso/leg proportions for these two gals might be the issue.so yes I would recheck the floor to waists, front side and back as well as the full length to see if these proportions are close to in order as well as the floor to inseam value.

I would also make sure the stretch values are what your fabric stretch values are. DS uses 100%H and 100V as the default...swim fabrics often have a greater vertical stretch. IN Mpd we changed the default to 100H and 120V...

When you selected body type Im presuming you selected tall/standard, take a look at standard/standard if they are at 5'8 which is close to standard range (5'4-5'7") rather than tall especially if the torso isnt "long" but the legs are.That might put a closer focus on the torso lengths.

Im goig to start a little study on the taller swimsuit sizes to see if we have a bug in the wizard or we just need to help you change your selected parameters a little.

By any chance are these two gals related so it is a specific body type issue??

Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Kaaren
I enter all the girls sizes and load the same pattern for each one of them so the stretch value doesn't change. I double check that stretch value because I did misstretch once and what a mess! I'll look for the body type - I usually go to chart and enter in my 5 measurements, go to the big chart, adjust the bra size and make the front/back waist to floor measurements different if needed.
No - these girls are not related.
 
Posts: 22 | Registered: 09 September 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I already go in and change the default fabric stretch to whatever my material is. I also change the default on the front waist to floor. I've made a point to get that specific measurement on these tall girls. It has happened both times to girls who are over 5'8 and not a "stick", have some womanly curves. I usually am making 9 suits at a time so this height really sticks out and all the other suits come out well, except theirs. I'll try the full length front but I'm thinking that I may have to look at the front length to waist along with the front waist to floor since this seems to be an issue of long torso vs. short torso. Would I be correct?


Yes, but Full Length Front is indeed that measurement - front top to front waist. I know it sounds like total height, but it is only to the waist. For a swimsuit, it is the most important vertical measurement.


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Posts: 1868 | Location: Austin, TX | Registered: 01 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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