Bob,
My last 3 "problem reports" have not been responded to so I am sending this to you via this formum. I am on the latest update, using the fitted pants, all at default. I printed out at 100% to double check that my measurements were right.
This is dealing with the Ab measurements only.

Here are all my measurement double checked this am

With ab average on
Front Drafts 21.75
Back 23.50
Total 45.25

With ab average off
Front Drafts 22.50
Back 23.50
Total 46.00


Actuals
Front 22.50
Back 16.50
Total 39.00

So I have an extra amount of "ease" of 6.25 and 7 inches in the ab.

I have not seen the problem report which would include the patetrn you are working on.

I take it this is "fitted pant, at default?

Does the pattern MEASURE the same as is reported?

What needs to be determined is.
the "report" feature off
or is the actual pattern "off"
and by "off" does the design call for that much ease?

Kaaren

I just checked a little further to see what might be happening and this is what I found.
I do use abd averaging so it's been a while since I checked.
I also have my settings under file to dont add ease at waist.

With abd averaging functioning I get a report on the "value" of the measurement but when measuring the actual pattern and deducting dart take up I get one "total result" which is what I expected.

Then disabling abd averaging the amoutns shift to exactly what chart numbers reflect ( more goes to front in my case) yet the TOTAL actual measurement is the same.not more or less.

From this one check Id say it is a report issue not a pattern issue. BUT one check is not enough so I will run a series of charts from my "test charts" which range from very tiny to rather large .

We found a report issue the other day that was kind of obscure and I believe this to be related.
The pattern is doing what I expected it to.

The report doesnt measure the "finished" pattern only whats "called for" to be added or subtracted to the body spot.In the case we found thats wrong it reports a value added more than once but it doesnt actually add and readd the value when drafting.


Kaaren

quote:

My last 3 "problem reports" have not been responded to so I am sending this to you via this formum. I am on the latest update, using the fitted pants, all at default. I printed out at 100% to double check that my measurements were right.
This is dealing with the Ab measurements only.

Here are all my measurement double checked this am

Hello Jacqui,

I checked my sent files folder and have found the following replies that have been sent to you.

1. On October 8, at 4:17pm, I received a report from you regarding the Casual Tuxedo Dress. I responded to that report on that day at 5:53pm.

2. On October 11, at 4:58pm, I received a second report from you on this same topic. I responded on that day at 5:06pm.

3. On October 22, at 4:47pm, I received a report from you regarding the waistband on a circle skirt. I replied to that at 5:15 pm.

In all three cases, the email was sent to jacqueline.gates@sympatico.ca. If this is not your email address, you should not use it as the "Reply" setting to emails that you send out. If this is your email address, then you should find out why you are not receiving emails that are sent to you. That is a matter between you, your email program, your spam filter, and your email services provider.

I cannot provide an answer to your current question based on the partial and incomplete measurements that you sent. I'm sorry...

quote:

My last 3 "problem reports" have not been responded to so I am sending this to you via this formum. I am on the latest update, using the fitted pants, all at default. I printed out at 100% to double check that my measurements were right.

I rechecked the email address that my last 3 responses to you went to and it appears that they actually were sent to "Jacqui", not your actual email address. I will try to resend those to your jacqueline.gates@sympatico.ca address and see if they get to you that way. But, this does suggest that your emails cannot be replied to and get to you. I do not know which email program you use. In Outlook Express, the Reply to address is optional and can be found in Tools - Accounts - Properties. If you do not have your email address there, mail will not get to you when someone replies to what you send.

Or, perhaps it is something else...

I am receiving messages from this board, and I have always received your prompt replies, that is why I am sending them to the board.

I have never changed my setting, provider or anything else, and Bob you can attest to the fact that I send quite a few "problems" whether they be mine or programs.

Since the problem with the Ab measurements is something that is very important as I am about to devote quite a bit of time to I would rather have this looked at before I delve into it.
Thanks


Jacqueline Gates

I'm seeing a different problem with the back ab line.

When using ab averaging I see the appropriate shifting of an inch from the front to the back -- and it does indeed come off the front and move to the back as it is supposed to.

The problem I'm seeing (at least in Fitted Pants @ default) is that the back abdomen line matches the chart measurement from center seam to side seam. That would be ok if I didn't need to sew out two darts on the left and two darts on the right.

The front ab line falls below the waist darts, as it should but the back ab line bisects the darts in the back -- therefore the measure from center back seam to side seam along the abdomen line needs to be chart measure + amount of dart uptake. Right?

So I guess I need to play with false abdomen ease to end up with a fitted waist, fitted ab, and fitted hips that fit my body. What would be the best way to do that? Or should I inflate the back abdomen measurement?

It's cold here in Ohio -- 44 degrees -- and I need some new long pants!

The total abd needs to be chart plus dart take up .

The front can actually "run short" if theres ample room in back or vice versa....

The curve from waist runs from waist to hip and once again look at an actual pattern measurement not the reporting numbers.

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by Board Administrator:
The total abd needs to be chart plus dart take up .

The front can actually "run short" if theres ample room in back or vice versa....

The curve from waist runs from waist to hip and once again look at an actual pattern measurement not the reporting numbers.

Kaaren

I printed my pattern at 25% and measured the ab line from center back seam to side seam. It is my chart measurement. If I sew the darts as printed, I will probably lose 2" in the ab area -- meaning my pants will be 2" smaller than the chart measurement.

Unless I need to print at 100% and measure that -- and that's a lot of paper to potentially waste.

Kaaren, when I sent in this report I had actually printed out the pattern to do the measuring,I did not take them from the screen as I know better than to use those numbers.

I took into account the dart intake also. I know that there should be no ease in the fitted pants in this area.

quote:

With ab average on actual printed and measured amounts
Front Drafts 21.75
Back 23.50
Total 45.25

With ab average off
Front Drafts 22.50actual printed and measured amounts from pants
Back 23.50
Total 46.00


Actuals

quote:

Originally posted by DressShopBob:

quote:

My last 3 "problem reports" have not been responded to so I am sending this to you via this formum.

I rechecked the email address that my last 3 responses to you went to and it appears that they actually were sent to "Jacqui", not your actual email address. (snip) If you do not have your email address there, mail will not get to you when someone replies to what you send.

Or, perhaps it is something else...

I believe the Problem Report filing form provides blanks for both name and email address. Users need to complete both.

quote:

I am receiving messages from this board, and I have always received your prompt replies, that is why I am sending them to the board.

I have never changed my setting, provider or anything else, and Bob you can attest to the fact that I send quite a few "problems" whether they be mine or programs.

Very true. And, I have not had any difficulty replying to them until recently. There has been one recent change in the way problem reports are hanndled. In the past, they were forwarded to my AOL email address at "DressShopBob@AOL.com". Recently, I have had more and more difficulty maintaining that AOL email account, so I shut it down about 3 weeks ago. Problem Reports now go to "Reports@LivingsoftNW.com". This seemed to be working fine. But, today, I became aware that several reports that I had replied to during the past month were not received by the person that sent in the report. In each case, the reply looked valid, looked like it was going to the person that needed it, but the email address was not there. Instead, just the name of the individual. Very odd.

I have no idea what would make the "reply to" address not work, but I have requests for help out and hopefully we'll get an answer soon and get this corrected. I do not know if it is some setting at Livingsoft, or something in the sender's email program that Outlook Express handles differently than AOL does. Whatever it is, we'll track it down.

There are several recent problem reports that I have not yet replied to - items being researched for an answer more useful than "I don't know". I will review all others that have been sent this past month to make sure no others went astray. While I slog through them all, please bear with me.

The hip curve is a complex algorithm involving the waist and the hip measurements ( with ease if called for ) less darting take ups and it is a bezier curve.

A bezier curve has two end point and one mid point.

Other factors also come into play such as floor to waist and floor to hip.

I cant explain why but Im still not sure where you want to GO.

My abd front is considerably larger than my hip front, abd back considerably smaller than my hip back.

Yet I do not ever use disable abd averaging.finding it compounds issues on MY shape more than fixes them.

IF you know exactly where you want to go adjust numbers accordingly..

IS the side seam a dead straight line from floor to waist? If its even slightly angled the front to back proportions may be slightly off at abd or hip.

IS the floor to waist in the proper position for the program?

Is the waist VERY tilted ( in excess of 3 inches?)

all those factors may be the cause of the issue.

The bend in the curve must be accomlished over a "length" if the length is very short you are going to get a high round curve, very long its going to clip the abd and make for a flatter "seat". check the floor to hip.

ALL must balance ...

Kaaren

quote:

I cant explain why but Im still not sure where you want to GO.

I don't know if you are replying to my post or to Jacqui's.

Where I want to GO? a pants pattern that drafts so that when I sew it will fit my chart measurements

quote:

Kaaren, when I sent in this report

Yesterday, I replied to Jacqui about this and she may or may not need additional advice regarding what to do about it. I expect she can follow up on that here in the forums.

I did want to pass along that problem report responses have not been getting emailed properly for the past 3 weeks. Yesterday, we found that out (Jacqui's post to the board asking about a report that had been replied to was one of several clues that came up yesterday). In any case, below is the reply I sent to her regarding the missing replies.

To any and all that have not heard back on problem reports sent in the last 3 weeks, I do apologize that we did not learn sooner that they were not being delivered. I still have several reports being researched, but all replies of the past 3 weeks were re-emailed yesterday.

- Bob

"The problem reports are handled by a web service that then forwards them to my email address. We tracked down yesterday (late) that the web service was not sending along the "reply to" email address properly. This break down of the problem reports happened about 3 weeks ago, but was only noticed yesterday. I had been answering reports as usual, but was not aware the answers were not getting delivered till yesterday when several people commented on it.

Very sorry we did not notice this was going on sooner....

- Bob Clardy"