Hi...OK--I'm thoroughly hooked now and fascinated. I find myself wanting more technical details, i.e., what the formulas are, etc. When Kaaren sent me that formula for the neck measurement, things suddenly clicked, and it made me want to know more.

Is there a technical manual available that has the formulas and/or algorithms? Right now I'm doing things that are rather hit and miss, and it takes forever to really figure out what is impacting what. I'd love to be able to see the formulas and go aha! now I understand what impacts that measurement, that in turn changes that slope, etc.

I'd be happy to pay for one.

Or--are there any training manuals that you use for people who become instructors that contain technical details? I'd also be interested in buying those. I really want to know and understand the intricacies of this software.

Thanks!

Louise

Trying to be funny here- But do let me know how you get on asking for The Colonels's secret recipe...

Our formulas are proprietory and thats what makes the "magic Happen"

With true respect
Kaaren

oh dear....I don't want proprietary secrets....I really just want to learn the software and am feeling quite frustrated at the lack of available information. What's in the help section is nice, but it is VERY generalized and doesn't address the fit issues that I and many of my friends have.

So how does one go about really learning how to tweak things and make things fit difficult bodies well? There is no one local to help, and there is no local users group. Surely you must provide something other than each person having to go through extensive trial and error? Or are each of us just supposed to figure it out or give up?

I'm getting my own pattern down fairly well, but I have a friend who is interested in buying the software but she is equally difficult to fit and is reluctant to make the leap after watching my numerous versions and trial-and-error process (which continues for every new garment I try). I'd like to be able to help her, but I don't know enough yet because I'm still trying to figure out how to fit my own body with this software, which has quite different issues than her body. At times I'm tempted to go back to pattern drafting or draping--it was time consuming, but I'm beginning to think that this software is equally time consuming but much more limited than I had hoped.

What do you suggest? I can't believe that all that is available is what is in the help section....that's not much for those of us with serious fitting issues. Yes, I did file a problem report and received a very nice reply--that the numbers couldn't possibly work or be correct. I replied that they were correct and that I had some issues...he was very nice and very sincere and tried very hard to reassure me that I was "normal" (I'm not and I'm OK with admitting it). Unfortunately, he had no ideas or suggestions other than "play with it." I have been. While I do enjoy it, I DO get frustrated because often what I think should result in something doesn't. That's what I want to know and understand. And if this software really does have limits regarding how well it can fit some body types, then it would be very nice to know that up front so that I would not invest the money or the time into it--and I now have a LOT of money and time invested.

Is there any hope? Or am I simply limited to continuing to make paper-and-pencil revisions because there is no way to understand how things work? Making extensive paper-and-pencil revisions kind of defeats the purpose of the software, doesn't it? If there isn't any solution, then I wish I could have known this within the refund period--but I have continued to try and tweak things and am now beyond the 30 day return period. I'd rather make things work better--any suggestions?

Thanks.

Louise

Actually there is a rather simplified method to correcting the chart to accommodate the body.

Please read What is a sloper and what to expect under Size>Fit Test Garments > then the blue letters 'click here'.

Take your last sloper- Draw on the grain LINE.

Draw on all the measurement lines with marker or colored pencils.

Press creases on the sloper into 1/4's. so you are looking at just a quadrant not the entire thing.

See which lines transit the quadrant where the problem is.

It becomes pretty obvious which line ties to the problem.

Pin or slash any non fitting areas.
Measure how much you pin out or how wide any slashes open.

Adjust the numbers accordingly. Even IF they are NOT what you measured to/from the points YOU elected to measure from.- they may NOT be the same points the program uses.

The body may well be asymmetric.

The program WILL produce a symmetric pattern.

Measure to the larger side,longer measure. In some cases you may be able to average the left and right side- in others you must take the larger number.

The larger side must fit- the smaller side may still have wrinkles.


Asymmetry is dealt with in construction via appliances such as shoulder pads, additional interfacing, lengthening or shortening darts, adjusting take up on one side or the other. Using a center back seam and so on.

We do NOT suggest making a left and right side- chart and then expect you to properly meld them together at center- that's a hideous amount of work, which often fails as the grain is often affected.

The formulas we use are often not so cut and dried as in : measure center front from waist up = to equal the base of the jewel neck at center. In fact that is about the only measure that is that simple and doesnt involve various other body measurements.

Often we use a percentage of the result of A or more than one formulas.

A custom chart produces a custom pattern but does not surgically fix body asymmetry.

You may further refine your patterns with easy to produce templates made of cardboard, timtex or pattern plastic for right and left darts, front/back side seam shapes even hem adjustments for those with extreme scoliosis.

Use the templates as needed as you prepare each pattern.

Kaaren

There are, however, some of us who do have left right assymmetry that can only be fitted by making separate right and left patterns and melding them on the center line. I have been doing my patterns this way ever since Kaaren and I trained together in Philadelphia in 199(8?). I have been correcting for this with commercial patterns since I started sewing when I was 12 years old. If you have this type of problem, I will be glad to try to help you through email.