quote:

Originally posted by Jane Krychiw:
Hi folks

In my opinion this is one instance where more is NOTbetter. I vote for less more like an .875 - 1"

Are some people asking for the default to change?

I don't think there will ever be a default amount of ease that everyone will like. It is a very personal thing and also changes according to the fabric and style of garment. That's the beauty of DS. We can make it whatever we like.

I have read where several sewing experts suggest 1-1.25" of ease. I respect their opinions, but that is not my preference.

yep
K

quote:

Originally posted by Carolyn:
Are some people asking for the default to change?

While it is true that everyone would like his/her favorite options to be the default, the reason I started this thread was to learn WHY people like the various cap ease amounts that they do.

It's the WHYs that I learn from and help me in my sewing --

But I'm surprised that no one who likes the 1.5" amount has written to say why they like that.

Again ... this is meant to be nothing more than a Coffee/Tea? Coke/Pepsi? Lapped zipper/Invisible zipper? poll

Teach me ... I'm ready to learn

I just re did my sleeve cap ease for Kaaren again.Heres what I found.
Fitted blouse in FIT tool choice.
Cap ease box reads 3.81cm @ defaults.
Changed to [zero] then redraft
Results were 0.00cm

could we maybe move the cap ease testing to a new thread or send Kaaren the results privately and keep this thread on the topic of "what is the best sleeve case ease and why?" or "this is the sleeve case ease I prefer and this is why"

Thanks

The standard in the pattern industry is generally 1.5 inches for home sewing patterns.

Stretch and knit fabrics dont like that.

Wools that shrink up when steamed into place can absorb it.

Some sleeves want more.I like the effect of a gathered sleeve head on a puffy sleeve blouse in a silk or rayon fabric IF Im in the mood.

1.5 inches can be carefully eased in with time and care except on stiff fabrics.

In fact it can even be done quite quickly with ease plus methods .(needs practice)

This allows the head of the cap to stand more proud.

Few people use a sleeve head of organza in their lightweight blouses any more ; but should always use a woolen one in a good jacket.

Cap ease is needed to produce the space the head will sit in ( Sleeve head can be a 6-8 inch strip of either folded in half organza or "felted wool, or in a pinch the selvedge edge of a 300wt polar fleece..its about 3/4 to 1 inch wide and the wool ones can be purchased from tailor supply shop.)

The cap ease provides shaping and if it is filled it can be quite nice! if tis left empty if yechy looking.

On great jackets even the shoulder pad has a an extension which covers the very top of the arm. This fills in the upper cap almost 2 inches deep.

My general preference is around 1.25 or 1 depending on the fabric!

An interlock needs much less and I put those sleeves in "flat" versus in the round. then I use anywhere from .75 to 1 inch.

On a good jacket I spend the time to put in the sleeve "in the round" completing both sleeve and side seam before inserting.

So I guess MY answer depends on fabric as much as style and use.

Is this one of those items that will take me 90 minutes to make up or 30 hrs.

If the entire garment is serged together ( Not for me) its foolish to try and ease in 1.5 inches.if its something that gets hand basted, steamed to death over a ham and allowed to cool and dry first.Ill go with more ease..

Sandra Bettzina did a show once where she spent practically the entire half hour altering commercial jacket pattern sleeve cap ease down to 1.25 inches from the "normal 2".

I cant remember putting over 2 inchs of cap ease in a jacket ever.

In the past decade sewing tools, notions and methods have changed drastically..always the eye to speeding up the process and make it easier.

Styles have also changed to a sleeker upper arm fit.

Sometimes I think the "pleasure" factor of fiddling with the fabric and enjoying the construction process gets lost in the rush to get 'er done..


Its personal preference...
Kaaren

lots of good info in Kaaren's last post

certainly will help me making my decisions to opt for a cap ease suitable to my current garment

and explains why I've always hated to put in sleeves with the industry standards ...

Gayle,
What a great conversation, thank you for starting this topic.

I use .75" ease for my tops, knit and woven. As to why I use .75" - I am going way back in my memory, but I recall that I had a problem getting the sleeve to fit in my very first top. It was Tina Chester who recommended that I lower the ease to .75" and it would fit better. Seeing how Tina goes around the country (and now around the world) fitting every body type known, I value her opinion. So I changed it to .75" and have had no problem since.

I have not made a jacket, yet...it is on my list. I have enough boucle to fill a whole shelf and not one jacket made as of yet.

I agree with you that Kaaren's post gives us alot to think about. And because I value Kaaren's opinion also, I will start with 1.25" ease on a jacket muslin and see how that works. But that brings up another point/question. If you test a jacket pattern in muslin and have problem fitting in that amount of ease, won't it be different for the actual fabric that you are using. Would it be better to test the real fabric for ease, and how do you do that?

I will repeat this question under a new topic, so this one does not go in a different direction.
Linda

Oh good point Linda.

A toile is a make up with all the perttinent bits and pieces.I like to think of them as wearable muslins.

So the good fabric sits and waits its turn while I use soemthing of a similiar weight and hand but a lot less money!!!! for my "muslin" NOT MUSLIN.

a wool something blend will work IF it steams and shrinks when you are planning real cashmere..(drool.......envy pouring out) and just a plain bit of remnant wool will work before cutting into stuff with a price tag large enough to buy a used car 25 years ago!

Then you end up with two items.one more quickly constructed but wearable OR maybe its worth just keeping as you trial new techniques , interfacings and whatever.then its a "workbook" piece...worthy of the expense for the elarnign experience.

I tried a jacket I was doing in wool from polar fleece.unlined blah blah.Ive worn that thing nearly to death!

no it didnt shrink up with steaming but the weight was similiar.

I wound up putting spanish snap button holes in it and covered buttons...forest green and it really needs retirment.

The wool one is dressy enough its brand new looking.

Kaaren

redrocks
Posted 01 October 2005 07:05 PM
So those of you with lots of sleeve-sewing experience ... what do you prefer and why?

I would prefer .75 with the option of adding more ease if necessary for differant fabrics.

Marcia in redrocks

Marcia, I don't think there is a pat answer to this question. There are so many variables - such as the fabric type - the garment style - and how they react to easing.

A stiff fabric like Ultrasuede is almost impossible get much easing, but a wool flannel will respond well to easing and steaming to shrink it some and that makes for a nicely rounded sleeve cap for a jacket.

For a men's style dropped shoulder shirt in a nice cotton fabric you could get quite a bit of easing in, but you wouldn't want it in this style garment; you want almost no ease at all, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

If the cap line sits on top of the shoulder use as much ease as the fabric allows and the when the cap line is dropped ease goes away except when there are shoulder pads that extend the shoulder, then it is the top of the pad that is the shoulder line.