livingsoftnw.groupee.net
What is the best sleeve cap ease and why?

This topic can be found at:
https://livingsoftnw.groupee.net/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/700108521/m/235103764

01 October 2005, 12:44 PM
Gayle
What is the best sleeve cap ease and why?
This is intended to be a friendly debate -- just because I want to know ...

I've found several instances of sleeve cap ease recommendations, ranging from 0.75" to 1.5". Usually I hear that the 0.75" to 1" are easier to sew in and look smoother when worn.

So those of you with lots of sleeve-sewing experience ... what do you prefer and why? TIA


DSPro 6.14 (w/patch a) ... Fashion Designer 1&2, Fit Tool, Princess Designer
Activewear II, Spring/Summer 2005, Illusions, Ultimate Outerwear, Ultimate Pants
Add-Ons 1-14, Pattern Sets 1044-46, 1049-52
Windows XP

01 October 2005, 01:03 PM
Kay (speedy)
Well if you have been following the recent posts regarding sleeves, you already know my wishes.
I vote for .75 default because I think they look more professional and just plain go in easier.
01 October 2005, 01:13 PM
Caroline
Count this as one vote for .75.
Caroline
01 October 2005, 01:14 PM
Cindy Selzler
.75 for most fabrics.
01 October 2005, 01:24 PM
Llantrisant
Gayle- I prefare to use a small amount of ease,since I use cm's I allow 2cm of ease, because this allows me to ease in when stitching,plus I don't like gathered look on a sleeve I like a more tailored look smooth cap.So when I bring up a pattern of a sleeve I go into tools and change the default sleeve cap to what I like,knowing this! be sure to check the biceps also,when ever we change the cap height it gives the effect of a marshmallow squishes the cap downwards.Biceps will then move outwards.FOr jackets I like a taller sleeve cap, due to the fabric content,heavier type,so I use the defaults there.Always check my sleeves, no matter what i am planning on.Hope this helps Smiler


M.P.D4.Pro.MPD Tools
Collections-Spring- Summer-Fall- Winter-Jeans Machine.
Windows7Home Prem. IE10
01 October 2005, 01:34 PM
Kaaren Hoback
I personally use .75 for most blouses/dresses and a little bit more for jackets.an inch to 1.25 depending on fabric and how well it "shrinks" into thre arm hole with steaming.

Commercial patterns use 1.5 and that was the goal ease. You will find many of the newer patterns with smaller ease amounts.

BUT.you all know how the smallest deliberate change can be reacted to...you changed the pattern draft.....its broken.......howl....

Ill be walking some full scale sleeves to their respective armholes later tonight and tomorrow..I just made a torso sloper for Cady and the ease was spot on...at default.The sleeve smoothed in beautifully and the fabric was....yechhhhhhy but firmly woven and on grain and a pepto bismal shade of peach .($2 for the bolt....)

Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
01 October 2005, 01:41 PM
Kaaren Hoback
Kay and others.try an experiment for me please...
open DS fresh
select a casual shell or fitted shirt
click sleeve whats the cap ease read?
now click fit
whats in the bicep ease box
change ti to zero
click redraft
now whats the result?

Kaaren

NUTS NUTS I wrote it wrong......

NOW CLICK FIT
WHATS IN THE CAP EASE BOX
CHANGE CAPE EASE TO ZERO
CLICK RE4DRAFT
NOW WHATS THE RESULT?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Kaaren Hoback,


patrns4u@aol.com
01 October 2005, 01:47 PM
Gayle
quote:
Originally posted by Llantrisant:
a small amount of ease,since I use cm's I allow 2cm


For other metric-challenged Americans ...

2 cm converts to 0.787 inches

Since I had to look it up, I thought someone else might need the info, too.


DSPro 6.14 (w/patch a) ... Fashion Designer 1&2, Fit Tool, Princess Designer
Activewear II, Spring/Summer 2005, Illusions, Ultimate Outerwear, Ultimate Pants
Add-Ons 1-14, Pattern Sets 1044-46, 1049-52
Windows XP

01 October 2005, 02:21 PM
Kay (speedy)
Kaaren, while you are testing, please test the casual shirt/comfort fit. Uh .75 ease. Smiler

tnx,k
01 October 2005, 03:17 PM
Llantrisant
quote:
Originally posted by Kaaren Hoback:
Kay and others.try an experiment for me please...
open DS fresh
select a casual shell or fitted shirt
click sleeve whats the cap ease read?
now click fit
whats in the bicep ease box
change to to zero
...................
Question-- is for a fitted shirt,Cap ease reads 3.92cm #2-- Fit is standard nothing changed in choosing casual fit level.#3-Bicep ease box reads 4.97,when changed to 0, the results after redraft are, cap ease 3.28cm.Bicep line moved downwards too,reads 0.11cm
click redraft
now whats the result?

Kaaren



M.P.D4.Pro.MPD Tools
Collections-Spring- Summer-Fall- Winter-Jeans Machine.
Windows7Home Prem. IE10
01 October 2005, 03:30 PM
KellyLoftice
I was told about the .75 quite awhile ago and have used it successfully. Lately, it isn't giving me the sleeves I have had luck with. I need to more discovery before I can say there is a problem.
01 October 2005, 04:24 PM
DLJones
.75 works best for me.
01 October 2005, 07:05 PM
redrocks
So those of you with lots of sleeve-sewing experience ... what do you prefer and why?

I would prefer .75 with the option of adding more ease if necessary for differant fabrics.

Marcia in redrocks
01 October 2005, 07:40 PM
Jane Krychiw
Hi folks

In my opinion this is one instance where more is NOTbetter. I vote for less more like an .875 - 1"
01 October 2005, 07:43 PM
Jane Krychiw
$2.00 for the bolt!? Wow!!!! Where did you get that buy from? Your favorite little shop where we visited that day so long ago......