I'm ready to try my first cowl neck top but an confused on assembly.

After joining shoulder seams, should I clip the corner where the neck edge of the shoulder seam and cowl neck begins?

Won't that leave a raw edge and if so how do I deal with it?

Thanks!
Jean

The wide high cowl neck across center front top when laying flat should be hemmed- remember it is folded inwards to form the cowl not seen from the outside.
The text only directions sans graphics from the MPD articles follows:

Cowl Neck
by Janet Dean and Kaaren Hoback


The cowl neckline changes the construction order for any blouse or dress.

After preparing your pattern and fabric, please review these directions before proceeding.

The cowl requires a "stay" which is an additional fabric piece applied to the inside of the fabric front to hold the neck and shoulders in position. The cowl will then stay draped and won't move around. The stay may be made of any fabric, but is often more comfortable if made with stretch fabrics or swimsuit lining.

The pattern piece on the right is for the front stay, which will be found under "facings."

There is a red T pin at the shoulder neck edge position.


Constructing Your Garment:

Do a trial of the pattern pieces to understand how the stay works. Overlay the stay piece on the front pattern piece. Match the stay to the shoulder and armhole area; the stay shoulder represents the finished shoulder line.

Note how wide the blouse cowl front is compared to the stay. The stay will “hold” the cowl drape towards the center, pushing the excess width in towards center. The "extra" is what forms the cowl or drape.

The raised neckline of the cowl will fold inwards to the inside of the garment, creating the draped cowl effect when completed.

Layout: The front piece may be cut on the bias rather than true long grain. You may add a center front seam allowance and layout the pattern as a single lay, flipping the pattern over print side down. Cut each half of the front separately and sew the two fronts together. This will create a chevron effect (i.e. V), depending on your fabric's texture.
Alternatively, you can create a seamless front by folding the corner of the fabric back on itself to provide a fold line on true bias. Use that fold to lay the half front pattern piece on the fold line. This may have a noticeable one way tilt to the bias grain of your front fabric (\\\).

The back is cut on true long grain on the fold.

Prepare and finish the lower edge of the stay by using an over lock, zigzag, or fold up single turn hem.

Prepare and finish the neck edge of the stay by stitching just inside the seam line. Turn a single fold hem. (Clip, if necessary, to ensure that the neckline lies flat.)

Prepare and finish the cut edge of the cowl using an over lock, zigzag, or fold up single hem.

Attach the stay to the garment, wrong sides together. Line up the shoulders using the red T pin marks at the neck edge, armholes, and side seams.

• Stitch just inside the seam allowance – shoulder, armhole and side seams -- taking care not to stretch.

• Stitch the back neck facing to the garment back.

• Stitch front to back at shoulder seams. Use whatever seam finish you prefer.

• Note: Keep the cowl and back facing clear of the shoulder seams.

• Stabilize the shoulder seam with clear elastic or stay tape.

• Complete the side seams, sleeves, and hems.


Copyright (c) 2006-2008 by My Pattern Designer, LLC


Kaaren