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Revisiting armhole depth
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<Rose Marie>
posted
I have made a fitted bodice which looks and fits well. I don't have the magic 1" difference between the front and back armhole depth. I do have "forward" shoulders (is that the term for not erect posture?) So I have been revisiting this to see if I can get the magic 1". When I do the additional side length, the sleeve cap height gets shorter than the measurement on my chart for armhole depth and the side is longer. I only compared the printouts and did not take the time to print out a pattern and sew it up. I have read a few posts where people say they also do not have the 1" difference and their bodices do fit. My question is do forward shoulders change the need for the 1" difference? Also, is there a place I can look to see the anatomy of the sleeve? I think I understand sleeve cap height...from bicep line to top of sleeve cap, sleeve cap width...bicep plus ease, front armhole length and back armhole length is measuring the bodice armscye, front and back sleevecap is measuring the sleeve. Where or what am I looking at or for when I am looking at Front armhole depth and Back Armhole depth? Thanks for enlightening me!
Rose Marie
 
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Rose Marie, balancing the armhole depth (making the back armhole depth 1 inch longer than front) does not affect forward shoulders...that would be seen in the frt/back armhole lengths.

If the sleeve balance is more than 1/2 inch out of balance, I would recheck your slopes first before you start changing side seam and armhole depth. A 1/8 in ch change in slopes can make a change in the balance.
 
Posts: 36 | Registered: 15 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<Rose Marie>
posted
Okay...I went to Standard sizes and loaded size 12 (close to my measurements) I am trying to understand the program and my measurements in relationship to Standard sizes. The shape of the back slope looks good for me (but I am short waisted so the full length needs adjustment.) but the front is too long. The full length front and front slope of the fitted bodice on the Standard size is w-a-y-y too big. I am short waisted (length between front neck and waist is shorter than "standard" and I do have sloped and forward shoulders. I am getting older and I know my posture is not good. Nevertheless...as I looked at the sleeve depths front and back for the standard size, the magic 1" is not there as presented by the program. So if I were to adjust more for my slope (and I have) the difference increases. Obviously I am not a standard size and that was the reason to purchase DressShop.

The fitted bodice that I developed does look good. I am just extra curious about the front and back sleeve depth. As I read postings, I keep thinking I must have done something wrong and I need to correct it.

Again...where is sleeve depth measured? How can I check it other than on the information printed on the sleeve?

Thanks. Rose Marie
 
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