I have finally perfected my pants and have moved on to blouses. I made a fitted blouse in Dress shop. (I also have MPD) but I have all the bells and whistles with DS so thought I'd get it to work. The darts com up to high. They end at the bust point instead of below. The side bust dart come almost from under the arm and ends way above the bust point and to far out. What do I need to adjust to correct this.
Second question. It just fits (maybe a little to tight) for my liking on a standard fit. Is this where it should be? I know I can increase the ease by going to casual fit. I suppose I can just add ease in the bust or where I need it.
Third question. If i take those same measurements to MPD will the fit of the top be different?
Thanks in advance for all your help.
Elaine

Did you make a sloper for the bodice?it looks like your bust depth may be slightly off.

quote:

The darts com up to high. They end at the bust point instead of below. The side bust dart come almost from under the arm and ends way above the bust point and to far out. What do I need to adjust to correct this.

Bust dart placement is determined by several factors. Take up is another set of formulas entirely.

The spot where the midline leg (finished) of the dart starts at side seam is determined by the bust depth. If yours is too high Check the true shoulder point to bust apex bust depth.

The vertical position of the apex cross is determined by the bust span..if your darts are too close to center or too far out adjust this number from apex of one breast to the other.

Kaaren

First of all, as far as slopers,yes, I've done several (too many to count) slopers. I went to a seminar and was measured after that there was a hugh wrinkle in the back of my sleeve. That was several versions ago. Karen, I'm sure you know what you ment when you gave me the explaniation however, I don't have a clue what you ment. Can you give me the for dummies explanition?

See the class page here on the BBS for a PDF ( opens in Adobe Acrobat) with graphics depcition of how bust depth and span effect the placement of the darts and apex.

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by Elaine Lesko:
The side bust dart come ...way above the bust point and to far out. What do I need to adjust to correct this.
Second question. It just fits (maybe a little to tight) for my liking on a standard fit. ... I know I can increase the ease by going to casual fit. I suppose I can just add ease in the bust or where I need it.

Elaine -

The quick and dirty method:
You obviously know where you want the side dart to end. Mark it. Take off the shirt.
How much lower is the marked dart end than the sewn one? Measure it and add that amount to the bust depth in your chart. It will lower the dart by that much.
How much shorter is the marked dart end than the sewn dart? Measure it and multiply it by 2 (so that you shorten both darts) and add to the bust span. This will shorten the darts.
That should get you pretty close.

If your bust dart placement is wrong, then at this point you probably can't tell whether the shirt it too tight or not. The dart misplacement can cause tightness. Fix the darts first; then check the ease.

Vicki

Thanks Vicki, that is what I needed to know. However I am puzzled. I had had my measurements done at a seminar. The sloper fit except for a big wrinkle in the back of the sleeve. I havn't tweaked any measurements because I've been working on the pants. So is it the new version of dress shop? Do I need to make a sloper with every version?

Thanks Kaaren, the visuals really help.I'm going to do this.

quote:

Originally posted by Elaine Lesko:
I had had my measurements done at a seminar. The sloper fit except for a big wrinkle in the back of the sleeve. I havn't tweaked any measurements because I've been working on the pants. So is it the new version of dress shop? Do I need to make a sloper with every version?

Elaine -

I usually print out a 25% copy of the slopers on each level. Then I can compare the new level to it.

BUT: When I'm being measured or at a seminar with other sewers looking on I subconsciously stand straighter. What does that do? It raises and pushes out the bust. Hence, the darts are too long and too high now that you are standing with your relaxed posture at home. Sounds good anyway!

Vicki

I did what you suggested. It looks like after lowering the bust dart it may not be too short. Thanks for the quick and dirty. Now just for grins and giggles where is ther perfect place for the bust dart?

The perfect palce for a bust dart depends on an individuals shape.
The dart ends at the bust circle which is between 1.5 and 2.25 inches away from the apex for side darts and a bit closer .5 to .75 for anything over 35 desgrees of so angle makign ti a form of French dart. the angle of the dart can be from -5 to about +48 degrees in the dart angle tool.....perfection is in the eye of the beholder/wearer.

Kaaren

OK I did as suggested and my bust dart is lower. It wasn't however until I had cut the pattern that I realized the front darts (not bust) are very short and off to far to the side. One comes up under the side arm of the bust dart. The back darts are fine. I'll selvage this shirt by not sewing the front darts. But how can I fix this for the future. I think I'm getting close now. To perfect the bodice would be wonderful as I now have a pretty decent pair of pants.
Thanks
Elaine

quote:

OK I did as suggested and my bust dart is lower. It wasn't however until I had cut the pattern that I realized the front darts (not bust) are very short and off to far to the side. One comes up under the side arm of the bust dart. The back darts are fine.

Waist dart length is from the bust circle ( distance off apex) to the abdomen depth line.

A shallow abd depth means a shorter dart.

Now as to spacing- and angle when worn this is controlled by the span.

A dart that wanders on an angle when worn means the span is off .If it angles towards center its a too long span, if it angles towards side seam its a too short span.

Your description is a too big a bust span number. Reduce it- avaerage span for an AB cup is 8 something, C-D 9 ish with a very alrge breasted woman wearing a minimizer bra which flattens the bust mound at or near 10 inches.

Kaaren

I may be misunderstanding but the dart doesn;t wander it is straight up and down. But it is to far over to the side. I did increas the bust span numbers when I lowered the dart as was suggested. I'll put that back and see what happens.
Thanks

Well, I can't even begin to tell you how nice this latest blouse looks. Even my husband who notices little said it looked custom made, which of course it is. I may raise the bust dart a smidge but we are just talking tweaking now. The blouse isn't totaly together yet but it fits perfectly. I've never had anything fit so nicely. Now what I'm thinking is if the pants are perfected and the fitted blouse is perfected, I should have no trouble with the rest of the patterns. I can't wait to get sewing. Thanks Dress Shop. I also have MPD. The next fitted blouse I make I'll try MPD to see if I spot any difference. By using the 25% print outs it looks like the patterns in both are the same. I'm really pleased with how the blouse fits under the arm. Not a wrinkle. It looks like it was spray painted.