I have 2 questions about how to improve my fitting. Am using the fitted shirt with shoulder darts.

1 - I need wider shoulder darts to fit foreward/rounded shoulders , so I tried increasing the back across the shoulders measurement, but the dart drafts the same width no matter what the BSW/FSW ratio. Only just over 1/4 ". I want this at least a half inch or more. If fudging the measurements cannot accomplish, how would be the best way to do this?

2 - My side seams are not in balance, giving large diagonal folds across the mid back to waist. Ripped the side seams and moved the front up 1 " and it looks pretty good. I have tried in 50% scale drafts with my front AHD increased by 1 " and this looks like it may fix this problem. But that puts my front and back AHD the same. This is about the same difference that the pattern ease on both sloper tops and fitted shirt add to the back AHD. Would it be best to try this fudged number for the AHD in a chart, or better to select ZERO armhole ease in the patterns?

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Bonnie

Some factoids demystified I hope.

1 Whatever anyone has learned about adjusting/tweaking a regular flat pattern will NOT REPEAT Not assist you in adjusting yoru chart for our patterns. Forget what you KNOW. It wont help!!!

There is NO pattern in the program that grades or adjusts to your chart..

Each pattern is developed strictly and ONLY BY the NUMBERS from your chart each and every time.

Numbers may be used alone but most often are part of rather complex algorithms to determine lengths, widths, curves and darting. Each and every line on a pattern is a result of the MATH.


So good numbers are imperative TO and FROM
the programs measuring points which may or may not be where you think they are.


So first I redirect you to the very early and not very good measuring class video from one of the very first classes that used videos. I will eventually redo this and make a better one.
But- for now its what we have.....
Measuring class video


After watching this and hopefully understanding WHERE our shoulder point is you can make adjustments by using the torso sloper, drawing on all the reference liens from the pattern PLUS the across shoulder, full and slopes right on the fabric. The shoulder point is key to your stated issues.

This is where you need some help from a measuring partner.


PIN or slash the torso sloper till you have no lines, wrinkles or puckers.

Measure how much you shortened by pinning out pleats, or lengthened by measuring across the opened slashes.

Mark those numbers right on the fabric.

Then print out your chart, and add or subtract where necessary and voila.

Expect the across chest and back to move, as well as the shoulder ridge.

DO NOT expect you will be able to "see" it on a 25% Pattern.

The underbust may not be in true position.

The abd is emasured on the front and applied to the back

The hip is measured on the back and applied to the front.

The front drafts to front numebrs and the back to back numbers. An extensive effort to smooth the side seams takes place.


Kaaren

Hi all,
First, I want to say, I am no expert and I am not knocking the program. I like it very much.
I, too, have forward thrusting shoulders. I have been working on perfecting the sheath for months. My back shoulder width is approx. 1 1/2 inches wider than my front. I understand (correct me if I'm wrong) that the measuring for the back shoulder goes across the shoulder blades and to the shoulder point. But, if back shoulders change direction at the blade (go forward) the measurement is taken in thin air to the shoulder point and does not follow the actual body. Years ago, when I had Fashion Designer on DS5 I was able to enter 3/4" for my shoulder dart, but with the current program you get the same default smaller shoulder dart. I don't have Pro. One way around this that I am doing is using a pencil and scissors to widen the shoulder and then draw in the shoulder dart I want. Another idea I have toyed with is to print two charts: one with my front shoulder width and one with my back shoulder width and just use the the front on one and back on the other and marry them at the side seam.

Or you can contour the measuring tape to the body from left to right shoulder points.

BY slashing the shoulder dart and pivoting the shoulder point outwards filling in the slashed area with paper you can have any size dart you like.

For jackets and better blouses/dress the use of shoulder pads that you can custom make are useful.
Dirctions can be found under Help> Sewing articles< scroll to shoulder pads.

MPD Pro has a Designer dart tool that allows you to adjust the dart take up.

Kaaren

quote:

1 - I need wider shoulder darts to fit foreward/rounded shoulders , so I tried increasing the back across the shoulders measurement, but the dart drafts the same width no matter what the BSW/FSW ratio. Only just over 1/4 ". I want this at least a half inch or more. If fudging the measurements cannot accomplish, how would be the best way to do this?

The default width of the shoulder dart is 10% of the Shoulder Length amount.

There have been settings for altering this amount in the past. Based on what you own, those settings may still show up in the dart dialog. It sounds like back shoulder dart width may need to be available in all cases? We can make that change in the next update....

Yes please, those with very rounded or tilted forward shoulders may need to increase this amount.

Kaaren

Having the adjustable shoulder dart would be great! Currently, if front shoulder length and back shoulder length are very different I have different jewel neck widths front to back. Obviously, this is not good. Thanks so much for listening to our concerns (and so speedily too.) Not many companies that would do so.

Thank you!
Some of us are aging fast and our shoulders are
"rounding" as we lean over our sewing machines happily sewing DS patterns.
Anya

I want to thank y'all for the supportive responses. I, too, am excited about getting a dart width tool, It is not in DS Pro 9.

Kaaren, you were right. my problem was not armhole depth issues, but total front pattern lengths. I ripped all seams. increased the back shoulder darts. pinned, tucked, and found that my front blouse length measurements were all too long...by pinning a one inch horizontal fold across the upper chest and then resewing the front to the back...and eureka, all the sloppey lower back diagonal folds disappeared!!

I think reducing the FRONT CFL, FSS, AND FL will fix this.

Bonnie