I made a casual panel blouse based on measurements that create a very well fitting fitted shirt. I can pinch out a large dart in the front armhole on the panel blouse and any other top without a dart. I did try to use the dart tool on this top but it created a broken draft.

I have submitted problems reports on both the dart tool and the armhole problem.

I am getting quite frustrated that any garment without a dart drafts this way. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what have you done to fix it?

Thanks,
Renee Wuenstel

"I made a casual panel blouse based on measurements that create a very well fitting fitted shirt. I can pinch out a large dart in the front armhole on the panel blouse and any other top without a dart. I did try to use the dart tool on this top but it created a broken draft. "

The points in your post may provide the answer.

One is your expectation- I doubt you do but it sounds like you expect a casual undarted garment to fit the same way a darted fitted garment does.

A casual fit garment will always have more ease ( excess room over chart numbers) than a fitted blouse.

and A Darts purpose is to remove excess where it is not needed and release it where it is.

We can not fit and shape a flat piece of yardage over a curved surface without darts or pleats. You can drape it over a curved shape but it will fall in folds if the yard goods is soft enough.The larger the flat yardage the larger the pleat or "wrinkle".


I would check two measurements:
The front arm hole depth as your dart on a fitted garment may be masking an over large arm hole depth.(then rebalance the back arm hole.)

2 The high bust measurement,once again a large dart at side seam may be masking a too large high bust.either or a combination both of these may be contributing to what you are reporting.

Kaaren

Thank you for the info.

Can you give me some guidelines on how to evaluate the front armhole depth and the high bust? The fit I have on the fitted shirt appears to be very good. Do I just start playing with the numbers to see what happens to the fit?

"Can you give me some guidelines on how to evaluate the front armhole depth and the high bust? The fit I have on the fitted shirt appears to be very good. Do I just start playing with the numbers to see what happens to the fit?"

I have a formula I use for the frotn arm hole depth.varies for men versus women and kids.
adult women
Bicep ( taken right under the arm) + ease 3.30 divided by simple Pi 3.14= front arm hole depth. Round up to next 1/8th.

so a bicep of 14 would be
14+3.30=17.30/3.14= 5.50

back ahd would be one inch bigger at 6.5

High bust is another matter depends on cup size and bust depth
a B that "sits high" may be fuller than a DD that sits low....

High bust:

in general theres at least 1.5 to 2 inch difference between high bust and bust.the alrger the cup the bigger the difference.



Kaaren

If I make the changes suggested to the armhole depth, the cap height is only 4.92". It looks short. Does this seem reasonable on the sloper?
Front depth = 7.29, back = 8.29 (on drafted sleeve). I haven't made it up yet.

On the fitted shirt the cap height = 5.38".

Renee

Sorry those numbers for armhole depth are 6.29 front, 7.29 back.

quote:

If I make the changes suggested to the armhole depth, the cap height is only 4.92". It looks short. Does this seem reasonable on the sloper?
Front depth = 7.29, back = 8.29 (on drafted sleeve). I haven't made it up yet.

On the fitted shirt the cap height = 5.38".

Renee

Somethign else is out of balance if thats the case.the sloper cap height is generally only slightly smaller(within an inch) of the front arm hole depth when all is balanced.

I suggest sending me your chart for a quick look to see what appears to be in or out of balance.
Kaaren

quote:

Sorry those numbers for armhole depth are 6.29 front, 7.29 back.

Better....the cap height is still a little too low..send the chart.Ill look.
Kaaren

Sent. Did you receive?

Kaaren,

I made the changes suggested and sent another set of measurements along with the results. The sleeve cap height is even shorter now. Did you receive the email? I haven't heard from you since Friday so I am assuming you are just busy.

Thanks.

I am working and at the very end of a beta thats planned on beign released this week.and I do take some time off on weekends!

I took all of Sunday off after class ended at 2PM.

Ill check to see if the changed measurement set is being held in a to do file.
Kaaren