28 May 2010, 07:20 PM
Barb LevyJ-hook in back crotch
Okay, I have a fitting pants sloper, no J. I also made test semi-fitted pants, fits fine, no J in back crotch.
I printed out a comfort fit, loose pants pattern and there it is, the very pronounced J in the back crotch. The lowest point of the curve is about 1" below the crotch level line; the horizontal crotch level measurement is 3/4" longer than the same measurement on the semi-fitted pants and the sloper.
I cannot send a problem report, so this way will have to do. Please, what is going on here?
28 May 2010, 08:33 PM
Kaaren HobackProblem reports are working again- impossible to give you specific answers without specific data.
The comfort fit pant has a deeper crotch (ease) and increased ease values all of which may compound a slightly overlong crotch length.
Kaaren
29 May 2010, 07:38 PM
Barb LevyDeeper crotch -- well, yes, I would think so! But, not to the point of curving that far below the crotch level line, then curving back up.
On the sloper and semi-fitted pants, I have a back-waistline-to-crotch-level measurement of 14 3/4". On the comfort fit pants, that measurement shrinks by nearly 2 1/2", the crotch point moves forward by about 3/4" (probably correct), and the total back crotch length increases by about 1" (also probably correct). I'm sure that decrease in the back-waistline-to-crotch-level is what is causing that J-hook. Yes, I've unchecked "waistband" in the "Extras" menu.
Until I can get the problem report issue resolved, I've resorted to pulling out my sharpened No. 2 lead pencil, gridded ruler, French curve set, and compass to redraw the back seam, crotch curve and darts to match the semi-fitted pants.
29 May 2010, 08:21 PM
Kaaren HobackI've had a number of problem reports today - mostly on activating programs but they are coming in. Wont promise to be on lots of hours this holiday weekend but will check at elast a couple times tomorrow.
Kaaren