Hi, all --

Tried to send a problem report, but no dice, so this way will have to do.

I'm having a problem with pants patterns generally: sloper and fitted pants do not have a back J-hook at all, semi-fitted pants have a slight J-hook, and anything looser have a very pronounced J-hook. I had to correct a "ski-slope" back crotch seam and did so by adding to the back crotch seam, as suggested in some DS supplementary information. Yes, I've installed DS 8.03.

How can I lose the "J-hook" on all pants patterns?

either increase the back floor to waist or decrease the crotch length- if the front is off as well check the inseam length
Kaaren

quote:

I'm having a problem with pants patterns generally: sloper and fitted pants do not have a back J-hook at all, semi-fitted pants have a slight J-hook, and anything looser have a very pronounced J-hook. I had to correct a "ski-slope" back crotch seam and did so by adding to the back crotch seam, as suggested in some DS supplementary information. Yes, I've installed DS 8.03.

How can I lose the "J-hook" on all pants patterns?

Two methods. Which one is best is a fit test determination:

1. Increase back crotch extension slightly.

2. Reduce Inseam slightly. This will effect the front crotch curve as well, so it is probably not ideal.

But, those are the only two methods, if the default standard fit pants have a good curve.

All righty, here's some more detail on what's going on:

1. My pants SLOPER ("Pants Test Garment")fits. (woo-hoo!)
2. I printed a "Fitted Pants" pattern and measured the front and back crotch lengths and centerlines to compare to the sloper pattern. All of the mentioned "Fitted Pants" lengths are 2" LESS than the ones on the sloper; it's almost as if there's 2" cut off the top of the pattern.
3. I've examined onscreen the "Semi-Fitted Pants" and the "Comfort Fit Pants" and it appears the front and back crotch lengths and the centerlines get even shorter with looser fit. And did I mention the J-hooks?

I hope this makes sense; if not, I'm going to have to find a way to send a problem report or fax/mail some pattern printouts and my measurement chart to you.

Yes it does-make sense IF you are using the Complete Pant designer. Take another look at the Complete pant designer and note the waist level and waistband parts of the menu.

The sloper you made did not have a waistband.
Let’s say you are looking at the Career pants- Classic leg, classic fit, and you have most likely selected a waistband.

Now look at the column that is headed by Waist position - the default selection for "waist treatment" and the most popular choice of our tester’s for the waistband top to sit at the waist position selected.

That means the pant waist is dropped by the width of the band. The default value of the band is 1.5 inches wide.

By un-checking the box the waistband will ride above the natural waist. The pant waist will rise.

Jeans of course also have a yoke in back addition to the applied band.

You have an amazing assortment of choices to make where you want the waist in relation to your natural waist, various styles of waistbands and dimensions as well as the leg cut, fit and pattern adjustments. This tool is HUGE- take a little time to explore the possibilities.

If you are not using the pant designer and still have a J hook- your crotch length is quite simply too Long for the rise or crotch depth.
Crotch depth is f/w conformed minus inseam. Crotch Length is a measured amount and included the vertical drop and extension. Shorten either the crotch length of the floor to waist and crotch length.


Kaaren

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Kaaren Hoback,

Part two- problem reports:
• Next: for Program ‘bugs’ and assistance in getting your program set up, questions on program operation- send in an Problem Report. The problem report is located under Help> Problem reports. You must have an active internet connection. Please fill in your full name so we don’t call you – hey you and use the registered email address you purchased the program with.
The report will come to either Bob Clardy- Dress Shop or Kaaren Hoback for My Pattern designer and contains details on which version of the program you are running, a coded copy of your measurement chart, a coded copy of the pattern you had on screen, details on how many activations you have retrieved and what operating system you are using.

One of those "AHA" moments, I guess! What got me is that waistband position box is RED, which made me think I couldn't do anything about it until I buy Pants Customizer. Okay!

On the problem report: I know how to access and fill out the problem report form, but there appears to be some sort of block that's preventing me from sending it. I'm having the same issue with several other programs that need internet access for updating, etc. It could be the security software or a setting in Firefox/IE; I'll have to consult my local computer geek friend for some answers.

I suggest you Use IE for our programs NOT FireFox- I had so many problems with it with so many programs I removed it completly and went back to IE.
Kaaren

Arrgh! Just when I think all this is solved, a new issue has cropped up.

I unchecked the "waistband" box (which is RED, since I have not purchased Pants Customizer), tried to print a full-size pattern, and got this message: "When printing unowned patterns, only 'Fit to Screen' scaling is allowed".

Does this mean that the only way I can get the waistline/waistband where I want it is to buy Pants Customizer? This was not a problem in previous incarnations of DS.

No you dont have to buy it- you can load one of your owned pants from file> Load patterns lets say Pants -> Fitted-> fitted
it has a waist band and the top is at waist
now go to extras unclick waistband
pant comes back to natural waist. Print pant front and back.

Still want to print a waistband ? after printing front and back return to extras click waistband print just the waistband.

But previous incarnations of Dress Shop did NOT have this fabulous tool that gives you so much more personal design freedom and capability. It had loads of stuff measured in dozens now its measured in hundreds.

tah-dah
Kaaren

quote:

I unchecked the "waistband" box (which is RED, since I have not purchased Pants Customizer), tried to print a full-size pattern, and got this message: "When printing unowned patterns, only 'Fit to Screen' scaling is allowed".

Does this mean that the only way I can get the waistline/waistband where I want it is to buy Pants Customizer? This was not a problem in previous incarnations of DS.

If you do not own The Complete Pants Customizer, use the Waistband option in the Extras dialog. With that, you can change the width or drop the waistband altogether. The Copmlete Pants Customizer has a number of other options.