I am a thin woman and fitting the back crotch has always been a problem. I designed a fitted pants pattern and the crotch wound up becoming two "V"s. So when I sewed the crotch together the crotch became a "W". No matter how I tried to scoop or fudge it the back crotch was still too short. My measurements are accurate, but on measuring the pattern, the crotch measurements did not match, they were too short. Can anyone please solve this mystery. All of my life I had to add an inch or two to the waist. Thought that dress shop could correct this. Help!

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I am a thin woman and fitting the back crotch has always been a problem. I designed a fitted pants pattern and the crotch wound up becoming two "V"s. So when I sewed the crotch together the crotch became a "W". No matter how I tried to scoop or fudge it the back crotch was still too short. My measurements are accurate, but on measuring the pattern, the crotch measurements did not match, they were too short. Can anyone please solve this mystery. All of my life I had to add an inch or two to the waist. Thought that dress shop could correct this. Help!

The crotch curve is one of the more complicated seams in any pattern. The armhole is another. Both are created using a number of different measurements that all must work together. For the crotch curve, those include:

1. Front and Back Crotch Length. Obvious.
2. Front and Back Crotch Extension.
3. Floor to Waist Front and Back.
4. Inseam.

The ones that are probably plaguing you are the Floor To Waist and Inseam values. The difference between those is crotch depth, the height of the crotch curve from the waist to the inseam. As an example, consider these measurements:

Crotch length = 12"
Floor To Waist = 35"
Inseam = 29"

The crotch depth (height of the complete crotch curve) is only 6", but the length of the curve that must fit in that space is 12". If the crotch length was 6", you would have a straight line from crotch tip to waist. But, with 12" of curve to fit in that space, curve must bend double. It just does not work. So, you end up with a shorter curve than you asked for.

It is difficult to describe these types of problems and there are many examples that may or may not match your circumstances. Your best bet would be to send in a problem report so we could see your actual measurements and advise you where to adjust. It is most likely the Inseam value as everyone measures that one differently. And, crotch extension is often more guess work than true measuring. They are all involved and only when we can see them in relation to each other can we really tell why a curve is not shaped as you might expect it.

So, send in a problem report and we can offer more specific suggestions....