quote:
Originally posted by Beth Calvert:
I found "How to assemble patterns" in the "Help Index", but there is no article called "Bias Binding". There are 6 articles listed: shawl collar, turtleneck, yoke, one-seam pants, waistbands, and slippery fabrics. Is "Bias binding" under one of these topics? Am I missing an article?

Help>Help Index> How to assemble>All about bias and self bias
patrns4u@aol.com

Reply: "All about bias and self bias" does not appear. I have 6.092, plus all the patches. Is the update for the help a seperate download?

Beth

ooh hm may only be actiavted if you ahd ther release that came with it.

Ill send you a copy! Privately send me an email so I can reply
send to patrns4u@aol.com
Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by Kathy Warner:
Linda, can you explain the neckband on the Landsend shirt? By the time I've zoomed in it's too blurry to see detail.

Thanks......

Kathy Warner

Short version.
1. After you stabalize the shoulder seams, sew one shoulder seam only back to front.
2. Take a 2" strip of knit fabric, same fabric I used for t-shirt.
3. Starting with right side of t-shirt up and with 2" strip, lay strip on top of shirt along neck edge starting at unopened shoulder seam. I cut off my S/A before I make the neck because this method will lay right on the cutting line when done, give or take for the turn of the cloth, but that is miniscule. Use whatever S/A you want, the wider you make it, the wider the binding will show after complete. I have used 3/8" or 1/4", whichever look you want to achieve.
4. Sew the binding to the top stretching the binding as you go along. Stretch a little for any straight areas, which are few and stretch alot for the curved areas, but always stretch the binding. If not you get puckers when done.
5. Press as sewn, press, not iron. This eliminates the puckering you will get from stretching the binding and not the top.
6. Press the binding around to the inside. I do not finish the raw edge, see below why. I press it to the inside very carefully using the flat surface and a ham if I have to. I press twice, once towards the neckline and then I turn the top to the so that the wrong side is up and press it over the seam allowance.
7. Pin the neckline binding down making sure that the the binding is tight over the seam allowance.
8. Using a twin needle, 2mm or 4mm whatever is your preference, sew the binding down from the right side. This gives you two rows of stitches on the front and a zigzag finish on the inside that now covers the raw edge. You can do this anyway you want, with one seam on the top and the other on the binding, or with both on the binding, whichever look you want to achieve.
9. Trim close to the raw edge on the inside without cutting into the t-shirt (learned this from experience), and press again.
10. Should look like the shirt displayed.
11.On sleeves, it is the same technique, stretching slightly the whole time. Again I cut off the hem allowance. because it will lay right against the cutting line. Unless you want the sleeve to be 1" longer. I used a cap sleeve and sometimes leave the hem on because I am feeling fluffy and want a little more length to hide the arm fluff, and then sometimes I don't want to hide it.
Hope I did not forget a step, if you need more info, let me know. But like Kaaren already said, practicing on scrap fabric first is always best.
Linda Flint

Kaaren wrote:
may only be actiavted if you ahd ther release that came with it.

What release was it in?
Thanks,
Elsa

It was originally released in hat Shop.but as I recall, was released with Illusions.

Kaaren

I was about to post about taunton press,I love watching their video's on how to do things.GGGG

Thanks Linda & Kaaren. I'm going to have a whole new Tshirt wardrobe trying all these necklines out.

Kathy

Thanks to all for the replies on bindings for the neckline. I really like the format of this list when you can read the thread continously(spelling)

The best I could tell, it looks like it is finished with a narrow coverstitch. You have to have a coverstitch capability on your serger, or a separate coverstitch machine to achieve this look.

quote:

Originally posted by Barbstew:
The best I could tell, it looks like it is finished with a narrow coverstitch. You have to have a coverstitch capability on your serger, or a separate coverstitch machine to achieve this look.

Not necessarily do you have to have a coverstitch machine. It is just two rows of sewing from the front. If the high cost of a coverstitch machine gets you down, like it did me, you can get around having a coverstitch machine by using a twin needle. I use a twin needle to sew down all my neck and sleeve bindings. the other advantage of twin needle is that it gives you a zigzag line on the back which acts like a seam finish. I just trim close to the zigzag, very carefully!

On hems for the bottom of T's I need to put a stabalizer behind it to prevent skipping, I use copy paper. I use up to 6mm for hems, but check your sewing machine manual before going this high.
Linda Flint