I drafted the Dress Pants using DS and imported the pattern into MPD. I then zeroed out the crotch exts and breaks and let the MPD program redo those as was advised.
Here is where I am now with the fit.
The sides and Inseams are straight. The fit around the body looks good.
Now the parts I am having issues with.
There are very slight smiles in the front. The Rose is 1 1/8" too much forward. I don't know if this is the way the MPD pant pattern is suppose to draft or not. The back waist is 1/2 to 5/8" too low.
Dues to illness it has been well over a year since I have been able to sew. I am not sure what I am needing to correct these problems. I would love to make some quick fixes so I can have a workable pants pattern. Any help would be more than appreciated.
Forgot to ask, do I need to make my measurement changes in DS or MPD at this point?
I'm not an expert by any means - but here is a few things that I looked at for the crotch area.
Look at the extension lines - they are red and indicate the amount - is the pattern extending beyond that area. That could be why the Rose is too far forward. I honestly don't remember what I changed to correct that - but I think it was to increase the back FTW measurements so that the crotch length could curve into that area.
I don't think you would need to change any of the DS measurements for MPD other than what you have already done for the extensions.
Someone who has been fitting/sewing clothes longer than I may have some additional ideas. I just got back to sewing myself. I've made only 1 pair of jeans - quite a story on that one - but all in all I still love how they fit.
Keep asking questions - I know that I do.
MPD 2 Pro, DS Pro with almost every feature and pattern collection
I guess I will have to wait for Kaaren to chime in here. My energy level is really low these days, so I am hoping for a quick fix. The pants really look nice if it weren't for the few issues I mentioned. Much better than when I had drafted them in DS. Except in DS the crotch area was in the correct place and my last pair of pants in DS were not that low in the CB.
GGGG's If life were simple. LOL!
There are differences in the shape of the crotch in DS versus MPD style.
The DS pant is the "American crotch" which is a bit more boxy and the intersection of front to back is the midline of the crotch.
The MPD shape is a modification of the European version and the intersection is more forward.
Without a chart to look at I can only give some tips:
fact#1 the floor to waist conformed minus the inseam = crotch depth or rise.
fact # 2 the MPD pant has a more forward intersection and the shape is different from the DS shape.
fact #3 there is inseam ease of 1/2 inch which makes the back inseam shorter than front- this is a built in couture trick to force the back to cup the bottom- if you dotn like it make inseam ease 0
fact #4- most women will need to icnrease the center back waist dart- better that it is too small so you can measure the excess you need to pinch out at the waist by simply pinning- rather than make it too tight at default and have you slash and measure the gape. always add cbwd as needed for each draft- this angles the back fork so it curves to the body.
the front fork is straight.
now what does the first fact mean?
If there is not enough torso room in the back,and the leg length is correct in the back you need to increase the floor to waist AND most likely back crotch length.
When you change any measurement related to the crotch forks front and back- always zero out the front and back extensions and curve breaks so the program can recompute what it needs to do with that length.
Sorry - thats as much as I can do right now- got a touch of food poisoning at lunch two days ago - on the mend now but limp.
Kaaren Hoback wrote:
There are differences in the shape of the crotch in DS versus MPD style.
The MPD shape is a modification of the European version and the intersection is more forward........................................................................................................
Kaaren, I am so sorry to hear of your illness. I know from first hand experience that food poisoning is no fun.
First let me say how much I appreciate all the information you and everyone on the list have given me concerning the crotch area when DS is imported into MPD. I do appreciate that yours and everyone one else on the list time is very valuable. And I appreciate that you all are so helpful when DS and MPD user like me need it. I know that everyone is wanting that quick fix and I am no different. I don't want to be selfish and say but I really do. But because of health issue I really do need a quick fix.
Here is a little history of where I am coming from and what warrants my desperate need to work quickly in getting a good fit when taking my DS pants pattern into MPD. I have been out of the loop for a long time due to my having a degenerative disk disease, arthritis and fibromyalgia. I never know which days one of these debilitating diseases will strike and I will be down and out of commission for sometimes days, weeks and even months at a time. So the days that I am able to get out of bed I have to work fast and furious to catch up on lost time. I am having a period now that I am able to get up and around and am in desperate need of pants. Because of my bone structure I am in no way able to wear RTW. Kaaren, You once helped me get a good pants sloper in DS, but I am wanting the draft everyone is bragging about from MPD. Because of my bone structure changing, once again I believe the FTWB has changed and needs to be corrected. From your explaination in your other e-mail I believe I now know what to do to correct that. (finger crossed!)
I took all of the DS classes when they were available, but have never been well enough to be able to take any of the MPD classes. So I don't know what I am suppose to be looking for as far as the norm of how the MPD pants draft.
That being said, I still have concerns about the crotch intersection. My crotch intersection is a full 1 1/8" forward from the Rose area. Is that in the normal range for a pants pattern drafted in DS and imported into in MPD. Is there a specific amount that would be the norm for the intersection to be forward? My intersection is hitting almost to the pubic bone. Sorry if that is too graphic, but I don't know how to explain it any differently. Is it normal that I should have to change the Crotch Ext? Or once the MPD program drafts then should I just leave them as they are? NOTE: (I did zero out the Crotch Ext and Crotch Break once I brought my measurements into MPD.)
I do apologize for this letter being so long. But, I did not know how else to get everything across that I thought was of importantance. Once again, You will never know how much I appreciate yours and everyone elses kindness and patience in helping me get a pant to fit this whacked and deformed body.
DS PRO with all of the goodies, MPD Basic
Send in a problem report and I will take a look at the pant draft and make sure it is balanced.
I am pretty much caught up so I should be able to take a look the same day I get it.
Thanks so much Kaaren! A problem report has been sent.
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