Before I cut anything out can someone tell me how to use quarter scale to find flaws? I've seen posts that talk about what to look for, but I don't know the sequence. I've been at this for 6 weeks now. If I get one area correct (such as the f/b armhole lengths), it throws another off (such as 3+" difference in the side seams f/b.

Hmmm...I have never used quarter scale patterns in this way. Neither can I imagine what would cause the side seams to differ. Do you remember what change you made to your measurements that caused this? This is something that you should be able to see on screen, so no printing would be needed.

IMO, you will never get your measurements right without making a full-size sloper. You don’t have to use expensive fabric. Use any med. wt fabric, even an old sheet. If you have a. Specific question we might be able to help here. Or you cab even post pictures on Facebook.

Remember, you are looking for a good fit, not absolute perfection.

Thanks. I can't see wasting the time and energy to sew a sloper when I can see it isn't going to work from the numbers.

Kaaren said to check the sloper by checking in the order the program drafts but I have at least 3 versions of how she said it works. All 3 start with across shoulder. Can anyone tell me the correct order?

PS I've used the program since '95. Great for pants, nightgowns and sleeveless dresses. I have never gotten the sleeves to fit well.

Katherine, West Michigan

I did not take Kaaren’s classes. As a beta tester and measurer I already knew how to measure.

You are right that the shoulder measurements are key, because the bodice hangs fron the shoulder.

First, your body must be marked accurately. The shoulder point should be right at the top of the shoulder, not dropped like you will find on many RTW garments.

Across houlder (f/b) - These determine where that point falls on the shoulder.

Shoulder length - This is the distance from the shoulder point to the neck. It drafts from the shoulder point to the neck. The neck opening is across shoulder - shoulder length.

Shoulder slope - This determines the slope (angle) of the shoulder.

To complete the neckline you need the center front/back. These draft from the waist up.

To better see how these work, first print a qtr scale, then, one by one , change these numbers by 2”, print and compare. DON’T SAVE THESE CHANGES.

That being said, IMO you will never know how these measurements work on your body by looking at a quarter scale. It may look reasonable, but our bodies are unique. What is important is how the garment fits. Commercial patterns look reasonable, but, at least for my body, they do not fit - not even close.

I wish I could find someone in Chicago to do my measurements correctly. I've never had true measurements even before my old Dell crashed and I lost even the faulty ones. After that I payed two people but both were dressmakers and they just couldn't do the DS kind of measurements right--the markings threw them off completely. So now I just use standard sizes, which don't exactly fit and it seems such a waste! Anybody know someone in Chicago?

Also I wish I could help this person. But I've never made a sloper because I never got reliable measurements.

Jan. Would you be willing to travel to Michigan and we can measure each other?? I live in a fun tourist town. I have a extra bedroom.

Katherine

quote:

Originally posted by JanBaker:
I wish I could find someone in Chicago to do my measurements correctly.

Are there sewing groups near you? Try searching on meetup.com. There are many many such groups near me and some do things like sewing party where people get together to sew, help each other fit garments, ask for advice, etc. You can probably get help measuring at such events.