This one is a biggie. In the last MPD update, we did some changes to the princess line side seams. Big improvements over how things were drafted before, but still not ideal for some users, particularly those with larger busts. Some were still getting a bugly side seam just under the arm.

The last few months, we have been struggling to correct that in all cases and believe we have succeeded. The cause though came back to some fundamental design approaches that were used in all fitted tops (blouses, dresses, jackets, coats, everything upper body that can have a side bust dart). The way that all fitted tops opened the side bust dart and then rotated it to different locations (french dart, armhole, shoulder, etc.) was causing the entire pattern below the bust dart to rotate as well.

Correcting the princess side seam issue for all users required that this approach be changed. We have used a different design approach for bust dart manipulation that has worked much, much better than we hoped.

The side effect was that all fitted tops now work better. The side seam positioning of the waist indent and the shaping for ab and hip are now balanced on body measurements without the need for the Bust Dart Offset that was used to correct these issues in the past.

It is difficult to describe this change in an email, so I'll just end this with these observations and suggestions:

1. Try the change.

2. In your measurement chart, set Dress Waist Offset and Dress Dart Offset to zero. Save that as a new chart, just in case. But, those entries should no longer be needed.

3. Draft a fitted dress or blouse with the measurement reference lines on and compare it with prior patterns, from either earlier versions of MPD or from Dress Shop. You should see the side seam changes.
4. Try one. The fit difference should be significant.

The entire beta test group has been raving about their results with this change for a month now, while we tested it with many measurements and patterns. We think you will, too.

Take a look. More in the next post....