Hi
I know when we make any change to our charts for numbers affecting pants we are supposed to wipe out the existing extensions and the center back waist dart number so that the new pants designer can recalulate those numbers. It seems that no matter what change I make to the lower torso numbers and wipe out the extensions and cbwd number the number that comes up in the chart for the cbwd after recalculation is "0". Is this correct? I do see a cbwd in the pants designer, is that supposed to take the place of the number in the chart? Should I be wiping out the cbwd number in the pants designer rather that in the chart?

Thanks,

Judy

quote:

I know when we make any change to our charts for numbers affecting pants we are supposed to wipe out the existing extensions and the center back waist dart number so that the new pants designer can recalulate those numbers. It seems that no matter what change I make to the lower torso numbers and wipe out the extensions and cbwd number the number that comes up in the chart for the cbwd after recalculation is "0". Is this correct? I do see a cbwd in the pants designer, is that supposed to take the place of the number in the chart? Should I be wiping out the cbwd number in the pants designer rather that in the chart?

For all dart widths, including center back waist dart (CBWD), if you leave it at zero, the program calculates and uses its own default instead. You should enter a value for dart widths only if you want to over-ride default values.

Of all dart widths, CBWD is the only one that is saved with your chart.

The Crotch Extension values are slightly different. Default values for those are shown in your chart. Not quite consistent with the CBWD (whose value is not shown in the Complete Chart). We could change the chart to show defaults there, too. We'll discuss that when we do the next update...

wrote this big long reply and lost my connections- arrg

Ill try and keep this simple.
When the chart is set to 0 for the cbwd the program is "allowed to calculate it and show it in the Pants designer".

Fronts draft to front numbers- backs to back numbers.
The total suppression is the hip minus waist.

That total is divided into the number of applicable places we can dart/shape. Not all darts always get equal portions.

For instance a classic career pant may have 2 waist darts plus the side shaping and cbwd. 4 places to distribute the total back suppression.

Varying fit levels have varying crotch extensions abd and hip ease. Waist ease probably wont change much but the hip ease may change the total suppression required.

The program now takes into account actual suppression for fit levels, leg styles, crotch depth changes and extension changes ( a lounge pant will have a deeper crotch and greater extension than a career classic pant or jeans.)
and uses a more efficient and accurate distribution of that suppression.

Even jeans with their possible waistband ( countoured wb) dart and yoke darts are carefully planned into this complex formula. Horizontal darts do not get an equal portion.

Complex- but as automated as we could make it. This is one of thsoe major changes that took us 10 months to create for you.

Kaaren

Thanks for your prompt replies. What I understand you to be saying is that when the chart cwbd number is elimiated, the program then puts in a "0" in the chart and calculates the amount of cwbd in the pants designer, where the actual dart width is displayed. Good that tallies with what I've been seeing.
Thanks again,
Judy

Right- and I wrote all that extra so all the users can understand how it works.

This is a major refinement to the pants- I cant tell you how central this more accurate redistribution of your darting ( suppression) is to the fit. The torso and legs are balanced from torso to hem.

The outseam shaping front to back is also improved despite the fact the front and the back may be very different shapes and curves.

It would be much easier to follow a dress form than real people or to use the logic of flat pattern making for a model size or dress form rather than the eccentricities of a real person. But you all are not made in a factory and deserve our very best effort.

Kaaren

Judy Im glad you asked this question for CBWD,as i have puzzled over the small amount it takes,but remember in class on the subject that it does look smaller in take up,like half the amount i was used to having in CBWD.