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Hi Everyone--

I need some advice...I am having a terrible time sewing in my bust darts. I am a 32DD and the uptake is significant compared to my frame. I ALWAYS get standout points next to my bust no matter how long or short I make the bust darts. And if I back the dart off more than an inch or so I get a puddle of fabric that should have been sewn out. The real reason is that the sides of my bust are all curve. There is no straight line to back off the point to. It curves right from the very side of my body and never stops. How can I sew a bust dart in without the pointies? This is making me absolutely crazy and I have been working on it for DAYS! Thanks for any help and advice...

Karen Smiler
 
Posts: 18 | Location: VA | Registered: 01 September 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Karen Gilbert:
Hi Everyone--

I need some advice...I am having a terrible time sewing in my bust darts. I am a 32DD and the uptake is significant compared to my frame. I ALWAYS get standout points next to my bust no matter how long or short I make the bust darts. And if I back the dart off more than an inch or so I get a puddle of fabric that should have been sewn out. The real reason is that the sides of my bust are all curve. There is no straight line to back off the point to. It curves right from the very side of my body and never stops. How can I sew a bust dart in without the pointies? This is making me absolutely crazy and I have been working on it for DAYS! Thanks for any help and advice...

Karen Smiler
There was a post about darts, so if you scroll down the lists perhaps you can find it here,sorry I can't help on this.
 
Posts: 1534 | Location: Ontario. Canada | Registered: 05 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
I need some advice...I am having a terrible time sewing in my bust darts. I am a 32DD and the uptake is significant compared to my frame. I ALWAYS get standout points next to my bust no matter how long or short I make the bust darts. And if I back the dart off more than an inch or so I get a puddle of fabric that should have been sewn out. The real reason is that the sides of my bust are all curve. There is no straight line to back off the point to. It curves right from the very side of my body and never stops. How can I sew a bust dart in without the pointies? This is making me absolutely crazy and I have been working on it for DAYS! Thanks for any help and advice...



First the obvious: double check high bust, bust and under bust measurements as well as "radius" and SPAN.

The pucker/bubble at the point is usually due to a too long dart coming too close to the bust apex. This is where span may be an issue.

If the span is too short the dart and apex placement will be too close to center.First impression is triple check the span, increase it by 1/2 inch and see what happens.

You do NOT need to make a full sloper- in fact just print from underarm to waist, try a rectangle of fabric, stitch the dart and try it on right side up for right side, wrong side up for left side. Use a bastin stitch that can be easily removed.

If you find all measurements are correct- the next thing is to curve the dart rather than sew a straight line. The dart is drafted as a straight sided triangle Maintain a straight center line to fold on, but curve the stitch line from widest at the out/side seam angling in for about 2-3 inches then start a gentle curve in towards the point narrowing the dart "prematurely". I was taught to think about ending the dart at the point at about the time you start stitching it. Remove the basting stitch from yoru trial and stitch the dart curved and try it on.

The shape of the breast effects the dart shape with greater fullness at the side that's where maximum take up needs to be ,now that's obvious but if the breast is fairly flat or boxed you need less take up near the point end about an inch or two away from the bust circle or printed dart end point.

You may also try increasing the dart ANGLE a bit more rather than aiming the mid line straight at bust- the elegant dart which has the top line straight on the bust forcing the mid line at an angle does adjust the shaping.

Also the larger the cup size the further away from apex the dart point ends. You can check this by placing a 12" ruler under your arm and gently pulling it in towards the bust with your opposite hand. Where the ruler stops "touching" is where your dart should end. Measure from that point to apex on BOTH sides.

The range is from 1.5 " for A/B cups to 2.25 for DD or larger with a minimizer type bra.

Most woman have one side larger or shaped differently from the other.

You can adjust the dart offset in the advanced dart tool, and manually alter for the longer/or shorter dart by determining what the difference is and knowing your machines default stitch per inch length. Ie: if the stitch length is 6 or 8 and one side needs to be 1/2 inch longer/shorter increase/decrease the number of stitches by 3 or 4 from the dart point.



Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Wow! Thanks for all the information! I have printed it out and will digest, measure, try, sample....and let you know how it all worked out. Very interesting about sewing the actual dart and trying the rectangle of fabric instead of doing the whole enchilada every time. Will save me much time and sanity--thank you!

Karen Smiler
 
Posts: 18 | Location: VA | Registered: 01 September 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi everyone--

I've tried all the suggestions and advice you all gave and have not hit upon the magic formula yet. I've checked my measurements and they are all correct--I think! I've done several trials with the triangle and everything I try results in either the pokies (still) or with too much fabric left hanging at the end of the dart. If I back the dart off, there is a huge amount of fabric billowing at the end that looks like it NEEDS to be sewn out. If I sew in a curved dart, there are pokies AND there is the fabric at the end if I sew it shorter. In fact, the closer I sew to the bust point, the better the whole front and dart looks, except the part where the dart is too far into the front of my body. It actually looks like I could take a small horizontal pleat all the way across--keep sewing the dart all the way across the front of me and keep going to the other bust point and around the other side of my body...But what a look that would be!

So, while I've done quite a bit of trial and error--mostly error--I've still not figured out what the real issue is. I'm not so sure that the rounded bust on the side is the major issue as its not THAT rounded, but it was the only thing I could think of that might be "different" from other ladies, and the curved dart doesn't seem to have solved the issue. I just can't figure out how to get rid of that excess fabric that is causing those pokies and fix the shape. If anyone has any other suggestions, I'd be happy to give them a try...and thanks again to those who have already given input.

Have a great weekend!

Karen Smiler
 
Posts: 18 | Location: VA | Registered: 01 September 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Side darts should point directly to the apex of the bust. If the dart is above, or below th bust line check "bust depth".

Bust minus high bust determines cup size and therefore the distance away from the apex or "offset" that the dart ends.

"Take up" is determined by how much total darting is allowed which is the difference between bust and waist and that darting is shared between side darts, waist darts and waist side seam shaping. The side darts getting a lions share again somewhat determined by bust minus high bust. For instance if High bust is Decreased side dart take up will increase.

My guess is that its one of two measurements that is off
bust depth
or high bust.

Kaaren


patrns4u@aol.com
 
Posts: 3511 | Location: Henderson, Nevada | Registered: 02 July 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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