Well, now I'm getting picky.

I posted on the club my latest new pant designer effort, which was pretty experimental. The fabric is a twill that wrinkles like heck and looks sloppy. Plus, well...they are clamdiggers, not slinky tight boot cuts. They are comfortable and look cute with a sweatshirt, but they aren't wow-eye-popping.

I did the contour waistband, which is a really funky looking thing when it is in pieces! Surprisingly, it doesn't look that swervy when it's done, but holy cow, I had to keep trying to figure up from down on the thing! The fit in the waist was once again dead on, even with a yoked back. The low-rise style finished out right where it is supposed to be, although it is not "low-rise" according to companies such as the Gap!! (And Thank God for that...)

Now my wish list: (Kaaren???)
1. I feel like my front crotch length is too long. I get the feeling I'd like to hike them up at the waist, and then roll down the waist an inch, and they'd be good. A RTW pair I measured has a rise 1 1/2" shorter...what would happen if I took an inch off my front crotch length? Would the waist drop a bit in front? Would I need to adjust the side seam length? On one hand, maybe I shouldn't mess with this, but I get the feeling I'm getting pretty close to really, really perfect fit, and now I'm obsessed. :-)
2. I'd like them just a scotch snugger across the abdomen. The pattern is accommodating my actual measurements, which isn't a good thing where my abdomen is concerned. Do I just have to live with myself, or can I control that in the ease or in my chart? Obviously not by doing sit-ups...

I am really loving trying out the new styles. Even when they are a bit, umm, matronly on me. :-)

I probably would not suggest changing the chart for a specific style or waist level- rather use the Pant Designer tool and adjust the waist level.


The clam digger found under casual pants has a default waist of 2" for the "low" waist you selected.

The waist adjust box shows that the top of the contoured band at default is 2" below the natural waist.

Ultra low ( at least our version of it wont require a bikini wax)is set at 2.75 inces below natural waist

By looking in the box that says waist adjust you know exactly what the top is from natural waist. There are limits to how low you can go- and still get a good definition as a pant type garment. We dont do a hip level waistband not ebcuase we are total prudes but because we cant control shaping at that point. You would need more of a panty type crotch for lower.(see swimsuits-

You can also reduce the waistband width from 1.5 inches to 1 or even 3/4 inch which looks fine in a square band..a little thin in a contoured band.

To reduce the natural waist position at front (which is the starting point) on your chart is a relatively big deal..first f/w front conformed, then crotch length and then zero out extensions so the program recomputes it all.

Kaaren

Got it...

What does the box 'waistband top at waist position' do when you check it? It seems to drop the waist?

quote:

What does the box 'waistband top at waist position' do when you check it? It seems to drop the waist?

Yes. It puts the top of the waistband at your waist. If you uncheck it the waistband sits on top of the waist, in the traditional way.

OK you will find alot of this type of information in the Help Article link (Help in blue) at the very bottom of the Pant Designer Menu box.

The radio button box when checked drops the pant waist the width of the waistband. The button doesnt appear until you have a waistband selected. Look to the far right under Pattern to confirm the waistband width- and you will know exactly how much the pant has been dropped so the top of the waistband sits at the waistline selected.


If you want the pant waist to sit at the waist line and the band to sit above it - simply uncheck the box.

Pretty cool feature..

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by Kaaren Hoback:

If you want the pant waist to sit at the waist line and the band to sit above it - simply uncheck the box.

Pretty cool feature..

Kaaren

What I think is even cooler is that I have gotten 2 fabulous and totally different waist fits out of the new program. Both came together perfectly, and fit perfectly. And, I really had no idea what I was doing, or even what some of the features I'd selected (or de-selected!) did.

Isn't it a hallmark of an excellent program when it is idiot proof??? :-)

I like to think " user friendly" rather than idiot proof which I am certain you are NOT.

Kaaren