I was making my first quick test of the jump from 2.0 to 2.5 pants. I was trying to follow the instruction from class & line up the thigh lines to get inseam ease sewn correctly.

Ran into a problem on 2.5 with Mid-Thigh ref line. The distance between the knee & mid-thigh lines is 1/2" less on the my back than frt. It's like the ease on my pattern is between the knee and mid-thigh.

When I measure the inseam on the seam line it shows the same length on both frt & back between crotch line & mid-thigh.

I sewed the pant lining up knee lines instead of mid-thigh. Every reference line i.e. abd, hip, knee lined up perfectly on both inseam & sideseam except the mid-thigh. Now that I'm actually looking on the screen it is very apparent so it's not a printing problem.

This isn't huge but is there a reason this would have changed? I haven't had this happen before.

Thanks, Vicki

Thats right- theres inseam ease on the back which makes the back inseam shroter than front which is why you pin match them so you stretch the back inseam to front inseam from thigh to crotch point.
Kaaren

I, too ran into this problem. The pant front seems to be longer than the back. I had about another 1/2" area to ease in between the front thigh and the knee area.

Inseam ease is the default and is set to 1/2 inch
that makes the back inseam shorter than the front so the back can be stretched between mid thigh to crotch point which places tension/pressure on the back bias portion fo the crotch curve so the pant back "cups" the buttocks. If you don't want that go to fit/ease and make the inseam ease 0. The inseam lengths will then be equal.

SEW UP-hem to crotch do not ease the front to the back rather stretch pull the back to the fronts length. and restrict the stretching ( fulling) to the top of the inseam above mid thigh and finish it about an inch before the crotch join point.

Kaaren

Kaaren

quote:

Originally posted by Kaaren Hoback:
Thats right- theres inseam ease on the back which makes the back inseam shroter than front which is why you pin match them so you stretch the back inseam to front inseam from thigh to crotch point.
Kaaren

Understand ... which is why I asked the question. The back mid-thigh line is printing 1/2" too low in 2.5 on my load.

If you line up the knee & midthigh lines between frt & back, your ease ends up between those 2 points instead of the midthigh and top of inseam where it should be.

The length of the inseam to midthigh line is equal because of where the back midthigh line is printing.

Vicki

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Vicki,

Okay, the mis-placed mid-thigh reference line seems to have something to do with my personal measurement file.

I started using the standard size 22 when I was having trouble with changing the back dart length on my classic pants.

While testing the dart length adjustment on the standard size (it works on it - just not my pant back), I noticed that the knee to mid-thigh reference lines match frt to back on the Std size also.

I guess I'll make up the Classic pants, post photos, and then send in my measurement file. I don't understand what I can have so wrong that it messes up the program functionality the minute I load my measurements.

Vicki

Dont obsess on this- reference lines are for guidance. They are not GPS points to a micrometer reading.

They may or may not be precisley positioned- at all body points.


Kaaren